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Author Topic: Arbor shims  (Read 230 times)

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AgateMan713

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Arbor shims
« on: August 27, 2017, 11:23:21 AM »

A couple years back i bought a lortone cmbination lapidary station and the arbor shaft is 1/2" and it seems i have lost my 5/8"to1/2" arbor shim and lortone doesnt sell them. They suggested that i try any of the websites that sell diamond blades. I have some cheapie diamond blades that i bought to practice with and none have the shim i need they are all set for 5/8" so i need the 1/2" shim. Anyone have an idea where just the shims could be bought? I have some stones i want to cut but need the daggum shim first lol.
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HOOKEDONROCKS

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #1 on: August 27, 2017, 01:09:45 PM »

I got a kit for 2 bucks at Harbor freight.
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Slabbercabber

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #2 on: August 27, 2017, 04:27:40 PM »

I'm pretty sure you mean bushings.  If you need to order them you can use Mcmaster.
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jakesrocks

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2017, 08:23:48 PM »

Covington lists them in their catalog, and I'm pretty sure Diamond Pacific does also. Most lapidary supply catalogs list them.

Slabcabber is correct. They'll be listed as bushings. They come in several lengths, so be sure to measure to find the length you need.
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AgateMan713

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2017, 10:36:23 PM »

Blade bushings to keep the blade from wobbling
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jakesrocks

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #5 on: August 29, 2017, 01:26:58 PM »

You could try http://www.jsgemslapidary.com/ . I'm pretty sure John is one of our members. He's a great source for parts, and should have the bushings you're looking for.
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Ryaly2dogs

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #6 on: August 29, 2017, 06:41:24 PM »

Yes to JSGEMS.  I had a similar request a while back and he sent me the right bushing within 2 days.  Didn't even charge me!  He has my vote for man of the year.
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Kaljaia

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #7 on: August 29, 2017, 06:44:08 PM »

Awesome to know this, I'm having trouble keeping my blade on its bushings too. It gets out of alignment and has a pronounced wobble.
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- Erika

I rock hunt in the Antelope/Ashwood area of the John Day river basin in Oregon. 90% of what I post is from this area, from private property where I have permission to hike and collect. The material I find is for personal use only, I do not have landowner permission to sell. Thanks for understanding!

Rockoteer

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #8 on: August 29, 2017, 09:20:05 PM »

Awesome to know this, I'm having trouble keeping my blade on its bushings too. It gets out of alignment and has a pronounced wobble.
You absolutely must use bushings.  What they said....lol
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Kaljaia

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #9 on: August 30, 2017, 01:10:49 PM »

Awesome to know this, I'm having trouble keeping my blade on its bushings too. It gets out of alignment and has a pronounced wobble.
You absolutely must use bushings.  What they said....lol

I am, but there's still enough space for the blade to sit diagonally on the bushing instead of straight.
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- Erika

I rock hunt in the Antelope/Ashwood area of the John Day river basin in Oregon. 90% of what I post is from this area, from private property where I have permission to hike and collect. The material I find is for personal use only, I do not have landowner permission to sell. Thanks for understanding!

Rockoteer

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #10 on: August 30, 2017, 10:26:22 PM »

Awesome to know this, I'm having trouble keeping my blade on its bushings too. It gets out of alignment and has a pronounced wobble.
You absolutely must use bushings.  What they said....lol

I am, but there's still enough space for the blade to sit diagonally on the bushing instead of straight.

I think your reduction bushing is too thick.  Also you should have a large compression like washer on each side of the blade.  I can't think of the name of them but that's what they are like.  Sorta cupped if you know what I mean.

I know someone will see these posts and come to your rescue..

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Kaljaia

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #11 on: August 30, 2017, 10:38:26 PM »

Awesome to know this, I'm having trouble keeping my blade on its bushings too. It gets out of alignment and has a pronounced wobble.
You absolutely must use bushings.  What they said....lol

I am, but there's still enough space for the blade to sit diagonally on the bushing instead of straight.

I think your reduction bushing is too thick.  Also you should have a large compression like washer on each side of the blade.  I can't think of the name of them but that's what they are like.  Sorta cupped if you know what I mean.

I know someone will see these posts and come to your rescue..

The blade came with three different bushings. One too big, one too small, and one the right size, but the cupped washers have enough space in the cavity next to the blade for the bushing to slip and the blade gets out of alignment. I stacked an old bushing alongside it, which helps a lot, but it still gets crooked and the blade gets a wobble.
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- Erika

I rock hunt in the Antelope/Ashwood area of the John Day river basin in Oregon. 90% of what I post is from this area, from private property where I have permission to hike and collect. The material I find is for personal use only, I do not have landowner permission to sell. Thanks for understanding!

Slabbercabber

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #12 on: August 31, 2017, 07:21:58 AM »

It looks like your original term (shim) was correct.  You can find them here.  https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-arbor-shims/=196hxlv
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jakesrocks

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #13 on: August 31, 2017, 04:55:08 PM »

Awesome to know this, I'm having trouble keeping my blade on its bushings too. It gets out of alignment and has a pronounced wobble.
You absolutely must use bushings.  What they said....lol

I am, but there's still enough space for the blade to sit diagonally on the bushing instead of straight.

I think your reduction bushing is too thick.  Also you should have a large compression like washer on each side of the blade.  I can't think of the name of them but that's what they are like.  Sorta cupped if you know what I mean.

I know someone will see these posts and come to your rescue..

Those would be flange washers.

To keep the blade from slipping off the bushing, Using a center punch, punch shallow notches at the edge of the blade as near to the bushing as possible. punch both sides of the blade. The punch marks don't have to be deep. Just enough to expand the blade slightly inward towards the shim. 3 or 4 punch marks on each side will do the trick.
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A day spent without learning something new is a day wasted.

Rockoteer

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Re: Arbor shims
« Reply #14 on: August 31, 2017, 09:32:49 PM »

jakesrocks, you are correct.  Flange washers....but I wouldn't go punching on the blade. I put a reducing bushing on each side of the one in the center of the blade and use the same size as the one in the middle.  I have not had a problem.  Just my opinion of course.
What works for one does not always work for all.
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