Applying to join this forum, you HAVE to activate your membership in YOUR email in the notice you recieve after completing application process. No activation on your part, no membership.

Lapidaryforum.net

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Welcome new members & old from the Lapidary/Gemstone Community Forum. Please join up. You will be approved after spam check & you must manually activate your acct with the link in your email

Congratulations to Bobby1 and his Brazilian Agate Cab!

 www.lapidaryforum.net

Another cabochon contest coming soon!

Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Saw Tuneup  (Read 1045 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

olgguy

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 370
Saw Tuneup
« on: July 24, 2018, 02:39:30 PM »

Time for a clean up and tune up. Might as well get a new blade. The hydraulic cylinder needed a new O-ring. Cleaned that out and all the oil lines, and the control valve. Got that all reconnected, put in new hydraulic oil. Tested for leaks while the tank was still empty of cutting oil. Bought a new Hyland park segmented blade, put that in and dialed it in by adjusting rail guides under the vice slide. Put in 4 gallons Kingsley North Lubra Kool mineral oil and we're back in business. Happy cutting to all.
Logged

bobby1

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 209
Re: Saw Tuneup
« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2018, 03:59:57 PM »

We have a similar saw in the classroom. Where do you find the throttling valves and cylinder parts?
Bob
Logged

olgguy

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 370
Re: Saw Tuneup
« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2018, 04:36:46 PM »

The O-ring is a standard 9/16 x 3/8 x 3/32, I got it at Ace Hardware. It goes inside the cap about 1/4" in, difficult to get out without scratching the wall of the shaft hole. Needed a dental pick, maybe you can make it out in the picture. Putting it back in you kind of fold it in half and start one end into the groove, and use a smooth round rod to work it in little at a time, no sharp edges. The plunger end I looked on line but didn't find any, so I just cleaned it really well. The main part of the plunger is sort of leathery maybe a woven material, in front of that is a metal perforate disc which is loose and movable. After cleaning it seemed to come back to life and is working. As for the valve, you may have to make one up from hardware store brass fittings and a different style valve. By the way this is a Great western 18" Horizontal feed saw.
Logged

peruano

  • Retired Zoologist
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 410
Re: Saw Tuneup
« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2018, 05:32:44 AM »

Thanks for the details of an unusual saw. Clean saws like clean cars - run better. 
Logged
Combining a love of bikes (pedal and otherwise) with hiking, hounding, lapidary, and the great outdoors

bobby1

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 209
Re: Saw Tuneup
« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2018, 08:57:18 AM »

Our shop saw is a 24" Great Western and the cylinder is really acting up so much so we removed it from service because of a lack of a source of parts for the cylinder. I never really liked it because the cover was heavy and awkward and it was hard to look back by the blade to see where it was positioned with regard to the rock being cut. The saw was donated to us from a major winery in Modesto Ca. They used it for slicing through wine bottles to check for the proper wall thickness as they were molding the bottles. Now they check the thickness with a laser.
We have a new Highland Park 24" saw on the truck somewhere between us and Massachusetts.
Bob
Logged

olgguy

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 370
Re: Saw Tuneup
« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2018, 02:02:01 PM »

At one point I drained the hydraulic oil out and ran the saw with just gravity feed cable and weights. The cylinder was just pushing air.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.102 seconds with 37 queries.