Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Jhon P]

Let’s see if this helps

[Stonemon]

Jhon switched the hot lead and I switched the common. Either one works. I am not an electrician and he is.... Pretty sure if you follow his diagram it will run like a deer......

[robirdman]

Sorry I made the wrong guess before getting a reply.  Originally, when I opened the switch box, the green from the motor was wrapped to its black and a white was to a black. I though maybe this was why it was shorting, and changed to the current situation.  I will revise tomorrow, first testing just going from the motor to the outlet, bypassing the switch, to make sure the cord doesn't have a short where it was crimped pretty flat in the switch box clamp. I hope nothing was damaged.. 

[robirdman]

Thanks. I will follow the diagram.  And all the green grounds should be capped together in the switch box - not as when I opened and the power one was capped to the black?

[Stonemon]

Yes, tie all the ground (green) wires together and make sure one is tie to a box or the saw somewhere. No connection to a black or white wire.

[robirdman]

I followed the diagram and the plugged in and the saw started running immediately.  But the off power button (which is chained to stop the saw ) is in = off.  So the other configuration would be the right one?

I thought I sent this but came back and it was still here.
I switched to the other configuration in #13 and same result. When power switch is off, saw runs, vice-versa.

[Slabbercabber]

You are going to need to check the continuity of the switch.  It may be bad, or it may be hooked up wrong.  Only a tester will give you the answer.  They can be had for a couple of dollars.

[robirdman]

The switch works, but backwards.  On is off and off is on.  Off is connected to the chain that shuts off the saw, and the housing for the 2 buttons are different sizes, so it makes a difference.  Could it be that white and black wires are reversed and then how should the connections be?

[Jhon P]

You may need a jumper between two of the terminals. Can you see any markings. L1, L2, T1, and T2?
Or take some pictures of the switch so I can see the terminals.
I have had a busy weekend, we had company

[robirdman]

I just took more switch pictures and in viewing, I noticed something I hadn't before.  The red is the power off, while black is on.  I think I assumed the opposite when I didn't read and didn't have glasses on.  And I can see the the chain is to the top, red, off button. So I think it is correct after all.  But here they are anyway. Looks like careful cleaning up wouldn't hurt.

[Stonemon]

Sounds like you are up and running! 

[catmandewe]

The cover or the switch is turned around, the red stop button is supposed to be in the shorter hole so you can turn it off easier in an emergency.

[Jhon P]

Tony is right. Turn the cover over or you may have to take the switch out and change the position.
It is a single pole switch so you can’t go wrong with the connections. Get you a can of contact cleaner from the auto parts store and spray it out. You may need a drop of oil on the moving parts. Because it will wash out all of the oil. 3 in one will work

[robirdman]

Well I just couldn't leave well enough alone.  Before putting oil in and cutting, I spent hours yesterday, vacuuming the area where it was against the garage wall, cleaning the outer saw frame, and then today repainting all.  I didn't want to add to the weight of the saw before pushing it back to the wall, as it weighs about 400 pounds, and it was a mess with opossum dung and debris where it sat for years. For 2 years, I had a truck in the garage that I finally sold, so I could only access it after that was gone. 
So then looking at the motor box with all these wires hanging out, I thought it would be a good idea to knock a hole in the box and put the power cable in properly, then close the box.  I first propped the motor up on a cement block so I could access the area better, then placed a metal rod in and hammered out the bottom slot.  I tested the motor before actually disconnecting anything, and it was OK.  Then I disconnected the 3 leads, put the power cord through the bottom opening, put the ground back to the screw, and the black to white and the white to the 3 wires, as before.  Then, without stuffing all the wires back in, I plugged in and nothing happened with the power switch on or off.  Inside the house, I found that the circuit breaker (and not the outlet one) in the electrical box had tripped.  I reset, went back to see if any wires were touching anything and moved out a little and tested again and same thing.  I disconnected the motor from the switch box and connected the 3 wires to my test plug with 3 bare wires, capped and plugged in.  I can't remember if there was a sound or spark, but a little smoke came out at the plug and I quickly pulled out.  No circuit had broken in the house though.  Looking carefully, I had noticed that it looks like I nicked a wire when I popped the circular plate out, but it wasn't touching anything.  I do remember an  earlier occasion in the recent rewiring and testing where the motor did not start at first and then I think I moved wires out further from the motor box, but I can't see what might be causing the problem.

[Stonemon]

Too many wires in that black wire nut.  Black on power cord to white on switch, Black from switch to black on motor,  White from power cord to white on motor..