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Author Topic: Sintered vs. Notched Saw Blade  (Read 10624 times)

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johnjsgems

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Re: Sintered vs. Notched Saw Blade
« Reply #15 on: June 24, 2016, 04:23:50 PM »

If you promise not to tell (this is insider information) the BD305 Agate Kutter is the MK Hot Dog.  So many people are using high speed water cooled tile and masonry saws for rocks they wanted a blade that worked well under those conditions.  I have only used the 10" 305 myself.  I tried a lot of different blades on my drop saw (formerly the Gy-Roc Preformer).  My all time favorite blade is the 301.  Trimming slabs on my saw with 301 is comparable to trimming on my MK145 4" tile saw (1/2 hp, 5500 rpm).  Shove it through and smooth cuts.  When I tried chopping down through a 3" rock the .040" 301 wanted to deflect and stall motor.  305 sailed right through with no deflection although with the extra thickness it did not trim slabs as fast as 301.   305 gives same smooth cut as 301 and 303.  Rim is significantly taller.  Club workshops are buying a lot of 305's as thick is only thing that holds up to abusive club members.
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vitzitziltecpatl

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Re: Sintered vs. Notched Saw Blade
« Reply #16 on: June 24, 2016, 06:26:52 PM »

Thank you, John. The MK225 Hot Dog works pretty well on our 10" saws, so I have to believe the extra oil carried by the segmented blade would help the 14" drop saw.

Some "dirty" stones build up a little sludge in the kerf with the 303, and in my mind that's just like driller's mud that's used to lubricate drill steel. It seems to stick to the rim of the blade, not allowing a clean diamond surface to get to the stone. Slows down the cut, but cuts good again if I clean the blade rim and flush the kerf.

Am using the old LS14. Might have to finally do some modifications to it, but I'll give the 305 a go first.

olgguy

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Re: Sintered vs. Notched Saw Blade
« Reply #17 on: July 12, 2016, 10:08:09 AM »

Just got back from the "Agate Expo" Highland Park has a new blade, segmented , sintered, 18" for $195.00
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johnjsgems

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Re: Sintered vs. Notched Saw Blade
« Reply #18 on: July 13, 2016, 04:21:21 PM »

How thick is the HP blade?  The blades I've seen before were really thick. 
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olgguy

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Re: Sintered vs. Notched Saw Blade
« Reply #19 on: July 13, 2016, 05:28:22 PM »

The HP 18" blade is .085 kerf. Price is $190.00
 
http://www.hplapidary.com/c/174/highland-park-segmented-blades
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johnjsgems

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Re: Sintered vs. Notched Saw Blade
« Reply #20 on: July 14, 2016, 12:25:27 PM »

That's an improvement.  They were selling green blades that looked to be 1/2" thick.
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olgguy

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Re: Sintered vs. Notched Saw Blade
« Reply #21 on: July 14, 2016, 02:41:47 PM »

Yes they still have them and he said they sell a lot of them. They made the new Black line to compete with the 303 series etc. Close up it looked like it was well made. They had them made in China to their specifications for the harder materials.  The Green ones did not look very even. The diamond inserts are longer rectangles set in vertically on the Green ones. On the Black the segments are normal.
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finegemdesigns

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Re: Sintered vs. Notched Saw Blade
« Reply #22 on: July 14, 2016, 06:38:15 PM »

As long as I don't cut polychrome jasper I am OK with my plain Chinese green 16" blade on my Covington 16" slab saw. This is a segmented blade so less expensive and doesn't last as long.

I like the MK lines also for my 6" and 10" saws.

Also check out my method of bushing blades to different sized arbors.

This idea solves the old problem of thin bushings falling out of the hole in the blade. This works when you use standard flange type washers to secure your blades. Each flange has an indentation and you match the thickness of the bushing so it makes contact with the inner flange surfaces at the same time the outer flange edge is tightened to the blade. So the bushing sticks out slightly on both sides of the blade and can't fall out.

This method has solved all my bushing issues forever.







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johnjsgems

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Re: Sintered vs. Notched Saw Blade
« Reply #23 on: July 15, 2016, 09:31:15 AM »

I've never tried plastic wheel bushings in saw blades.  The brass blade bushings can be kept in place by inserting bushing in blade hole and using a center punch (or big nail) ding the contact point of blade to bushing in 4 or 5 places.  I have used the shims inside the flange washer for small thin blades before. 
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ToTheSummit

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Re: Sintered vs. Notched Saw Blade
« Reply #24 on: July 24, 2016, 11:11:25 AM »

When I built my custom machine a while back I bought a cheapo "mean green" blade for the 8" trim saw portion.  It worked ok but its finally worn out.  I decided to try the BD303c this time, just ordered it from John yesterday.  Went for the thin kerf (.025) because no one else uses my machine and I'm not worried about it being damaged.  I will report on its performance.
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