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Author Topic: Highland Park B12 rebuild, suggestions please  (Read 940 times)

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jcricket

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Re: Highland Park B12 rebuild, suggestions please
« Reply #15 on: June 10, 2023, 07:28:05 AM »

I have been working on this and making some pretty decent progress. I do have a problem that I need to deal with.
The drain hole on the saw has 1/2"fpt threads. The thread are completely calcified or deteriorated. I have been getting them cleaned slowly, but it looks like they are so bad that they are unusable. My first though tto get a piece of 1" aluminum bar stock drill it and tap it to that thread and then either weld it, or bolt it(with a gasket) to the saw. This would restore the functions of the thread.

Does anyone else have a method or fix that they use? I would love to  here is someone has come up with a work around.
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jcricket

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Re: Highland Park B12 rebuild, suggestions please
« Reply #16 on: June 20, 2023, 04:40:28 AM »

Hey Folks,
I have tried everything to "restore" the pipe threads on the back of the saw. This would be things like soaking in a a mild acid, using wire brushes and files, and trying a carbide pick. It is beyond restoring and will have to have a repair. I have the pictured bushings and was wanting some feed back. These weld on bungs are aluminum. I was thinking of using these, and then using some of the aluminum brazing/welding rod. I have never tried this. I also have a concern about the bungs being a machined and pure level of aluminum vs the cast aluminum of the body of the saw. How would the two work together and what "rod/brazing material would I use?


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R.U. Sirius

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Re: Highland Park B12 rebuild, suggestions please
« Reply #17 on: June 20, 2023, 10:28:00 AM »

My view is that the drain hole connection is not a structural part of the machine, so welding or otherwise rebuilding it is an overkill (unless you already weld aluminum routinely anyway). It's more like a gutter of sorts, not a high-pressure piping system...

I would consider high-viscosity or thyxotropic adhesive appropriate for aluminium (epoxy or urethane most likely), and either patch that hole completely and drill another one next to it for a barbed fitting for soft tubing, or clean up this existing hole and glue in a barbed fitting. Use soft, tygon-like tubing, and be gentle when connecting it. Secure the tubing downstream, so there is no strain on the fitting when moving the free end of the tubing, and no kinks.
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R.U. Sirius

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Re: Highland Park B12 rebuild, suggestions please
« Reply #18 on: June 20, 2023, 10:41:19 AM »

Even a simple, gasketed through-hull (a.k.a. bulkhead) fitting would do after cleaning up the hole. No need for adhesives or welding. Like a rain-barrel drain.
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