Lapidaryforum.net
Gadgets, Gizmos, and Dohickeys => Cutting, Grinding, Polishing => Topic started by: Rockin' Randy on November 24, 2018, 02:00:02 PM
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I am buying a used Lortone trim saw which will need a blade. I believe it is a 6" or 7" blade. I am considering an MK 303 but open to suggestions. I will be cutting everything from agates to Petoskey stones for cabbing. I would also appreciate some thoughts on kerf size.
Thank you!
Randy
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I like the yellow blazer blades by raytech.
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We use MK 303 blades. You will also see BD 303 (Barranca Diamond) in search results. It's the same blade.
If you're new to using a 6" trim saw, you might want to start off with the .050" thickness. It will deflect less and give you straighter cuts. The .050" is even stiff enough to slice small nodules.
If you have high-end rough you want to trim or slice later on, you'll want a .032", or even thinner for some rough. There's a blade out there called the Pro-Slicer that's really thin. Others offer really thin blades too, but the Pro-Slicer is one that's been used by lots of people for a long time.
Be aware of the difference between core thickness and rim thickness when you buy blades. Some blades might advertise core thickness, but you want to know the rim thickness, so you know how wide your cut will be.
Have fun!
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I've had good luck with these beauties, and the price is right!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/150mm-6-THK-Sintered-diamond-segment-Super-thin-saw-blade-Jewelry-Lapidary-disc/122215534124?hash=item1c749d0e2c:rk:1:pf:0
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Thanks guys. I will be picking up the saw tomorrow so I will make an order as soon as I know the blade diameter for sure. All your thoughts have been helpful. I have used a few different saws, yet don't really know what blade kerf they had. I can relate to thinner kerfs for cutting pricier materials, and thicker ones when a a stiffer blade is needed. I appreciate seeing some numbers from you guys. Maybe I'll get a couple of blades.
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The reason I like the yellow blazer blade is it is stiff, but the kerf is only .020 in the 6”. My 4” blade has lasted a very long time even though I really abuse it.
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Good to know about the yellow blazer. The .020" MK/BD 303 is pretty easy to push around. If you slice small nodules it's easy to wind up with "wedgie" slabs. Thanks.
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Thanks ileney. I did look those up last night and I like that they are sintered - my understanding is it's a good thing.
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Let me tell you about the saw. I just picked it up and got it home a couple of hours ago. I belong to a rock and gem club and someone had donated it to be auctioned off at our meeting. We only saw a photo and was told it was 6". The bid started at $30 and when it got to $60, nobody bid against me. When I picked it up I discovered it was a Lortone Lt-8. So yes, I measured and it is an 8" blade I will be in the market for. There is a blade on it, looks very worn and heavy like a masonry blade. This is the last vital piece of equipment I needed to be able to cut and shape cabs to make my jewelery. I am so geeked!
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Bigger saw! Score! Good for you - that's like Christmas early.
I'm guessin' it's this one - https://www.kingsleynorth.com/skshop/product.php?id=98055&catID=1036 - just not stainless.
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I use a hi end priced ceramic tile saw blade. It's thick and you can abuse the heck out of it! Change out to a super thin blade for turquoise etc.
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I use the mean green blades and they are cheap and cut well.I use them with water but do not leave them in water when not in use.
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It was a real toss up for me between the Yellow Blazer and MK-303. I called with plans to order the Blazer and ended up deciding to go with the 303 at the last second. I do plan to get one of those cheaper heavy blades for hogging through Petoskey rocks and such, I like that idea. Down the road I still want to try the Blazer and compare it to the 303. Maybe next year or however long it takes me to ruin this blade (hopefully I won't bend it up or something the first week). And yes Vince, that's the saw. Thanks for all your input and ideas, it all helped.