Definitely a mix of Lightning Ridge and Coober Pedy. that was a good find for just $45. I think just one of those plates alone would be $45. It looks like a few "nobbies" in there as well (I'd cut those last if you are in need of practice, as they can be rascals, but also very worth it).
Definitely read up on opal cutting if you need a refresher. You've got what looks like 3 or 4 different types of rough to work with (not meaning location, but how the fire/potch are going to interact).
First, there appear to be some pieces that are opalized shell fossils, or pieces of that. The give-away there is going to be a precious/semi-precious opal with rust red base material around it. Fortunately, because the shell basically turns into opal over time, they tend to clean up nicely. The down side is that the opal itself isn't always the best quality, and can be hard to cab due to the curved nature of the shells.
Second, there appears to be some basic white pinfire. Again, rust red base material that can be ground off, but the quality of the opal can be low as well. On top of that it's more random on where the base/inclusions are, so you might have a clear face, but cut in a little further and find some rust red rock right in the middle of your cab. If the piece is thin enough to start with (as in 1/2" thin, you can use a bright light and "candle" it to look for areas that don't let as much light pass through. It's no guarantee, but it gives you an idea if there may be base material/inclusions inside what you see on the surface.
Third, there's the Lightning Ridge material. Not as easy to candle, and from what you have there, looks mostly like blue/green fire (lower in value than red/orange/yellow). Black Opal rough, in my experience, tends to have a base material than is much less dense than the rust red stuff from Coober Pedy, and acts a lot like cavities in teeth in how it appears to have eaten away at the opal material.
Fourth, the nobbies are nodule like formations of opal that tend to try and hold their treasure in their center. This does not mean to go and just cut them right in half however. :)
With the second and third types, it's important to remember that you can try and grind away an inclusion or bit of sand, but if you go too far, you may just cut through the entire color bar as well. In a perfect world, opal would be like two layers of chocolate cake (the base), with a layer of frosting (the fire) between them so you could just take off the top layer and expose the fire. Unfortunately, opal fire doesn't work that way, as color bars tend to be undulating sheets of color that curve and flow and vary in thickness etc.
Feel free to post close-up pics if you want opinions from people on which would be a likely stone to start with with little risk of loss if you make a mistake.
And finally... I'm not an expert, and cannot guarantee that all my information is 100% accurate. Just going by what I remember and have experienced myself. :)