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[Glot]

I am considering an industrial band saw used for cutting steel. The type used in engineering places. Replace the blade with a diamond one. Anyone have any pros or cons? The machine is a fraction the cost of a traditional slabbing saw but the blades will wear out quicker I think.
I currently have a manual feed circular saw. I use engine oil and diesel but it evaporates fast. Would Kero be better than diesel. The diesel is a lot cheaper and better lubricant. Something people don't realise is lighting kero ( which is all you can buy now) is actually abrasive and should not be used to was engine or machine bearings etc. In a saw, not an issue. Power kero was filtered to remove the carbon particles. My mix stinks but that doesn't worry me.

[Slabbercabber]

I'm guessing you are referring to a horizontal cutoff saw.  If so, I don't think you will be able to find diamond blades for less than the cost of a new car.  Also the force put on the blade will be far too great for cutting stone.  As for using kerosene (no 1 diesel fuel) or no. 2 diesel, both make very poor lubricants.  They flash into vapor at a temperature below what stone cutting reaches at the cut.  That shortens blade life and puts dangerous vapors into the air.  Water with coolant additive will do just as well, still with the flashing problem but at least safer and less odoriferous.  Mineral oil is the preferred lubricant.  One easy source is Walmart baby oil.

[Glot]

A diamond band saw blade 60 inch is about $150. A machine is about $700. Can cut about 150 by 200. A dedicated slabbing saw costs a few K for that capacity. Aren't all saws cut off saws? I haven't heard of an add on saw. The lowering rate is regulated and adjustable. The feed regulator would set the maximum feed speed but the rock would determine the minimum speed. I have looked at baby oil. Engine oil/ kero mix was the traditional lubricant. Some of the petroleum companies make a specific oil for rock saws. Water will always cool best because of its thermal characteristics. I have considered soluble oil but sounds like no one uses that. Maybe not enough lubrication. The best stuff seems to be the synthetic water bases rock saw lubricant but you need to dry your blade after each session or it will still rust, even though they say it won't.

[Slabbercabber]

At that price you are looking at plated blades.  You will need a few hundred of those.  The regulation of reasonably priced cutoff saw is done either by weight on the blade or/and hydraulic cylinder.  That may work, but for diamond on stone I would want something more precise.  There have been discussions of bandsaw trim saws here before.  Not quite the same thing, but those discussions might give some insight about the subject.

[robirdman]

I am trying to restore my Gryphon band saw, but this is just for small intricate shapes.  Had to get a new blade and tray, alignment problems, but I'm feeling close to getting it going again.

[kenny]

I have been using water-soluble oil exclusively for years now and and personally feel it it is the best way to go cooling of water and lubricity of oil 10-1 seems to be the suggested ratio but I think you may want to experiment as most recommendations are for circular saws. Would you mind posting where you found the blades for that price? I personally think that may be a great idea and if you get a saw fairly cheap you can't go wrong as they are fairly sought after, if it doesn't work you may be able to resell possibly at a profit. As you have correctly said down pressure and speed can be regulated on most of them. If you do go this route please give us a review. 

[lapidaryrough]

Speed kills,  Band saw + Rock = Rust.

 Why the slab saw Cost many $.KKKK to turn rock to mud.
You may need to run the blade at 4500 - 5200   Surface feet per-minute  ( SFPM )
I'm sure you've read the fine print about cutting rocks - And Short cuts in life?

  Jack