Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[jerrysg]

First off - My previously owned Raytech 10" came with well used maple jaws in the vice.  Replacements from Scott Enterprises, Boulder, CO (new owner of Raytech lapidary saw business) were also maple.

Second - for holding irregular shaped rocks, I make one flat surface by holding the rock in the vice with wedges, tongue depressors, popsicle sticks or anything else that will help hold the rock.  After I have one flat surface, I attach that surface to granite with superglue.  The granite I use is 1"x1" or 1"x2" cut from either 4"x4"x1" granite tiles or, more recently, from a broken piece of 1" thick granite countertop I got from the tile outlet for $2.  The granite clamps in the vice very securely. No problem if the saw cuts through the granite on the last cut. That's what the blade is designed to cut. If there is a thin sliver of granite left on the last slab, overnight in some acetone gets it off.

I use superglue for a couple of reasons: (1) only minutes after I put the rock and the granite together, I can put it in the saw. No waiting for the glue to cure, set or dry. (2) it's rigid. Not like silicone which can move or vibrate under the pressure of the saw.  Epoxy is also rigid but takes too long to cure for me. Never had a problem with the superglue bond breaking in the saw. Did have one break the other day because I dropped it on the concrete slab. Fortunately neither the rock or the granite suffered any damage.

Jerry

[Slabbercabber]

That sounds like a bad flange.  Never heard of such a thing but anything can happen.

[peruano]

Yes you can tighten the arbor too tightly.  Since it turns to prevent unscrewing, often just a bit more than snug is adequate for blade installation. 

[Craigab]

I was able to observe the wobble with just the flanges tightened on. I remounted them dozens of time and cleaned and flat sanded them. They do sit together nicely though so I’m not certain it is actually the flanges and not the arbor. My dad was sledge hammering in the shaft when he was changing the bearings. I’m guessing that put a slight bend in the 3/4” shaft which is amplified with an 18” blade. I did use a dial indicator and spun the shaft and was able to observe a consistent spike in the reading level at one point in the turn suggesting it was bent upwards at that area. I’m not certain it was enough to cause the wobble as I don’t know how much of a change matters but it was around 10 increments on a .01 indicator.  I went ahead and ordered a full arbor shaft, bearings and housing pair, and flange and nut from Lortone based on what is in their LS-18 model. Hopefully will fit my slab saw. If anyone has a similar problem down the road, the complete set costs ~150+ shipping which might be cheaper then getting something custom made at a machine shop. Thanks everyone of the help.