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Author Topic: Highland Park trim saw 10TS bearing replacement  (Read 554 times)

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Mako My Day

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Highland Park trim saw 10TS bearing replacement
« on: February 08, 2020, 05:27:57 PM »

Hello, I am refurbishing an older Highland Park 10TS trim saw, and am struggling to figure out how the bearings come out.  Can you press them out to either side? Or should they be pulled out from each side?  There is no visible part number, so hoping that I can match them up once removed. Thanks in advance.
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Downwindtracker2

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Re: Highland Park trim saw 10TS bearing replacement
« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2020, 06:38:40 PM »

Lapidary equipment doesn't always follow standard industrial practice. But here goes. the nut on the arbor should pull the shaft and bearing tight into a housing. There should be a step on the shaft to stop it from being pulled through and out of alignment. Or there could be a raised section of the shaft between the two bearings for them to bump against. Either way  a push from the inside would be my start point. That would knock the outside bearing out. The inside one then could be knocked out of the housing They generally use standardized bearing. If you take it into a bearing supplier , they can measure it and since most bearings are metric they should be able off the top of their head give you the # and supply it. You find inch bearings on 1930s stuff, but by the war, they should have been using standardized metric bearings.
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Slabbercabber

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Re: Highland Park trim saw 10TS bearing replacement
« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2020, 04:37:10 AM »

As Downwindtracker2 , the bearings are pressed in.  First you will need to remove the shaft.  After that you will be able to see what part needs to be pushed on.  When you remove the shaft, do not beat on it with a hammer.  use a block of wood between the shaft and hammer.  You can then use a rod to beat the bearing out of the housing.  Use the biggest rod possible and try to keep the bearing race square to the bore as you work.  When you get it out you will find a number on the bearing.  That will cross to other brands.  Cross references are easy to find in line.  I'll bet on inch series, not metric. 
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Ricardo Furioso

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Re: Highland Park trim saw 10TS bearing replacement
« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2021, 01:12:02 PM »

Hello Mako My Day.
Turns out I have the identical Highland Park machine.
With the identical problem.
The one I have is really beat up.
Did you have any luck?
I'm trying to figure out how to get the pulley-side bearing out of the arbor.
Were there two bearings?
Do you have part numbers for the bearings?
I can't tell.
I may have to take it to a machine shop to have them press in new bearings.
Anyway.
Please let me know all you can, I'm new at this as well.
Thank you for anything you can tell me.
Best,
Ricardo
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vitzitziltecpatl

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Re: Highland Park trim saw 10TS bearing replacement
« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2021, 06:25:11 PM »

I'll be following this thread with great interest. We also have one of these saws.

These are great old saws, and they will be well worth whatever effort you have to put into restoring them.

kent

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Re: Highland Park trim saw 10TS bearing replacement
« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2021, 09:48:25 AM »

I own a Highland Park B -10 and have completely disassembled it and photographed the components to offer them up to folks here and also to remember what the heck I did.
The thought process of assembly may be similar to your saw as I would imagine the same engineer was involved.

My trim saw has a separate casting, which can be seen in the first photo. The hole in the casting for the shaft has been machined for the bearings the same diameter in its full width. There is a machined bronze spacer(like a thin pipe)  between the left and right bearing. The spacer is about the same outer diameter as the bearings however it inner diameter is larger (than the shaft) which, once the shaft is removed, allows you to access the inside surface of the bearings to tap them out. I used a shaft that was slightly smaller than the Highland park shaft which made full contact with the bearing so it could be tapped out without tapping at one edge then the other. 

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