Lapidaryforum.net
Let's Rock => Opal => Topic started by: Neural on January 12, 2016, 05:32:39 PM
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I've been pondering getting out the sand paper and such to do some hand cutting. It's been way too long since I've cut opal and I NEED to cut some.
Since the process of hand cutting is generally more dry, I got to thinking about how Welo is often dry cut, and was wondering if anyone had advice on whether or not this would be a good idea.
The process would be using a whet stone to start (400grit) to shape, and then using sand paper up through 1200grit to do the overall form. Finishing up with CerOx (if I can find it. I may have to buy a replacement, so I'm open to suggestions there).
My main concern is the dry part. I could probably cut Aussie opal in my sleep, but Welo is a different animal, and I've only got two pieces to try out currently.
If all this is doable, I'd also like to know what methods are used to check the progress on the cut in regards to how well the fire shows. Just wipe with a dry rag and avoid water of any sort? or?
Thanks for the help. :)
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I recently dry cut about a dozen small Welo opals and it was a piece of cake. First fire opal I cut.
I started with diamond files of unknown grit. From there on up I used sand paper of 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 and 5000. Seems like I did use 360 in a few places where the 400 just wasn't getting it done. I learned early on to check them with a 10X lupe constantly because it is really easy to miss some and not see it with my eyes. Yours may be better. Some of the photos show scratches but they have been reworked and re polished.
The flat rough and finished product.
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h375/wampidy/Rocks/Opal/oval4.jpg) (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/wampidy/media/Rocks/Opal/oval4.jpg.html)
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h375/wampidy/Rocks/Opal/oval6.jpg) (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/wampidy/media/Rocks/Opal/oval6.jpg.html)
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h375/wampidy/Rocks/Opal/oval2.jpg) (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/wampidy/media/Rocks/Opal/oval2.jpg.html)
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h375/wampidy/Rocks/Opal/oval3.jpg) (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/wampidy/media/Rocks/Opal/oval3.jpg.html)
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h375/wampidy/rings/P2160034.jpg) (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/wampidy/media/rings/P2160034.jpg.html)
Smaller rough.
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h375/wampidy/Rocks/Opal/heart1.jpg) (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/wampidy/media/Rocks/Opal/heart1.jpg.html)
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h375/wampidy/Rocks/Opal/heart4.jpg) (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/wampidy/media/Rocks/Opal/heart4.jpg.html)
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h375/wampidy/Rocks/Opal/heart5.jpg) (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/wampidy/media/Rocks/Opal/heart5.jpg.html)
Some random smaller pieces. Bamboo skewers work superb for dopping. The left one in the first photo is about the only one to show the shine but all of them ended up like that when finished.
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h375/wampidy/Rocks/Opal/P8080027.jpg) (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/wampidy/media/Rocks/Opal/P8080027.jpg.html)
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h375/wampidy/Rocks/Opal/boat4.jpg) (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/wampidy/media/Rocks/Opal/boat4.jpg.html)
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h375/wampidy/Rocks/Opal/P8080018.jpg) (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/wampidy/media/Rocks/Opal/P8080018.jpg.html)
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h375/wampidy/Rocks/Opal/mount5.jpg) (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/wampidy/media/Rocks/Opal/mount5.jpg.html)
Some of them are pretty foggy and trying to cut them deeper or thinner did not seem to help any and the photos do not come close to showing the flash in them. A video of them out in the sun would show it but it is damn cold out there so not going to happen.
Hope this helps some.
Jim
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Jon,
I've never cut any dry, but I don't think you'll have any trouble. If you want to see where you are while you're sanding, I'd maybe just use a damp paper towel to wipe the dust off. Just a damp towel is not going to change the color -- it usually needs to soak for a bit for the opal to pick up enough water to start making it change to clear. Go for it! :glasses9:
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I have to get some supplies, but we'll see how it goes. I'm anxious to do something with opal again.
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now that i have the nova points to 50,000 grit. i too may poke a try ant making a quality cab again too.
Damn you neural! now i have to spend MORE money lol! (because i dont have any welo to play with)
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You're welcome.
Jim
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Jim,
When you say "sandpaper" what exactly are you using? Silicon carbide (wet/dry used dry), aluminum oxide or something else!
Jerry
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The lower grits were called gator-grit made in Finland, wet or dry that does not say what the grit is. Bought at Ace hdwr. Finer grits were Matador waterproof siliciumcarbid made in Germany. I do not remember where I got it but up to 3000 may have been from Ace also. 5000 is the same stuff but had it squirreled away for a long time and may have been purchased when I was in China so no help there. Probably available on line.
Jim
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I was at Ace the other day looking for wet or dry . Didn't know they had once carried paper that fine. I was happy getting 1500. That was the finest there was in the rack.
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Just went into my studio to find the sand paper. It is in an Ace package, but the fine print says made in Finland for Ace. The back of the paper is marked G2 waterproof, P1500.
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Prior to getting the 1500 sandpaper from Ace I was using P 800 Finland Electro Coated Flex Back, with a picture of a Bulldog. Also a 3M 1000, 401Q Imperial Wetordry. Only I don't know where it came from.
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You can get the 1000 and 2000 grit 3m paper from Automotive Paint supply houses.