Lapidaryforum.net
Rock Art => Knife Making => Topic started by: irockhound on June 12, 2016, 03:08:32 PM
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Here is the 2nd folder I tried after my long absence from my first knife so long ago. Turned out nice even with the tricky small radius on the canoe where the bolsters meet the scales on the blade side.
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That is just beautiful !! You know.... seeing "newbie" under your name is just a crime. Great job! :thumbsup:
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I stopped doing canoes so I really appreciate the degree of difficulty on this one! :icon_thumright:
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Thanks so much Kent! I have a lot of experience cutting and more importantly patience so I think that helped a lot but I will tell you I feel so apprehensive when I am doing these knives, so much to learn! I just keep looking at Michaels works or Jhon or TntMom for her meticulous cab work and think I have so much room to grow.
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I stopped doing canoes so I really appreciate the degree of difficulty on this one! :icon_thumright:
Michael, I am sure you don't remember me with the advice you offered on my Damascus folder I did several years ago but could I pick your brain again? I like the Single Bolster and shapes of the trappers and Peanuts and I was looking and saw you call them bareheads. I looked and thought I saw they sold them that way years ago but now do you have to grind the rear bolster off to make your own? If so I am sure that the rear pin might be extra work or just treat it like the pivot pin. Sorry I don't know knife lingo yet. I look up to your expertise greatly.
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I sand the rear bolster very thin at the front edge on my flat lap. I then use a wood chisel and hammer to break the weld near the front edge of the bolster and use a set of side cutters to twist the bolsters off. There should be enough of the pin left to pein tight but I will get to that in a couple of paragraphs.
The liner can get a bit bent but I have an anvil with a hole in it that I use to straighten the liners using a 4 ounce jewelry grade hammer. Put the pin over the hole in the anvil and lightly hammer the liner flat. Occasionally a bit of work with a tiny smooth faced jewelry pliers may also be needed/used to get the liners straight.
With the pin depressed in this flattening process is the time to use a carbide burr to round out a depression into the liner that you will pein the pin into.
You need a bit less than 1/8 inch of the pin out of the hole on each side to get a good strong peined flat pin. If you ground down the pin too much in getting the bolster off or the hole in the liner cupped you can use a simple finish nail of the same diameter as the pin too. Use the nail to tap the rear pin out into the hole in the anvil and cut it with a cut off wheel to the correct height and pein away.
This is basically the same thing you should be doing with the pivot pin......
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Thanks for that great info Michael. I will give it a try sometime soon. I'll need to order a peanut to have my way with first! Larry is a super nice guy. He has helped me out picking some good patterned Willow and even matched casting numbers on the buckles since each mold is a bit different.
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Great job. I love that noreena. I am working on a fixed blade with noreena right now.
Micheal what was the adhesive that you use? Locktite ?
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Locktite 325.
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Super nice work you got there. I'm not into knives, but the things you and Michael are showing, does wake an interest, even if only in an artistic way.