Lapidaryforum.net
Gadgets, Gizmos, and Dohickeys => Fixing, Modifying and Refurbishing your Lapidary Equipment => Topic started by: rubegon on July 04, 2016, 11:44:52 PM
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I just joined the forum this week after lurking around off and on occasionally.
I'm using Tapatalk - let's see if this works with the photos and all.
I started in lapidary first by tumbling and then I got into cabbing at a club shop a while back. Then I lost interest for a while, mostly because it was a hassle to go to the club to get access to equipment. I couldn't get my own setup at the time. Now I have some space and want to set up my own equipment so I can work at home.
I bought a non-working Highland Park E-10 combo saw/grinder unit a few years ago. It's been sitting in my garage, and I want to see if I can /should get it working.
I think I know what I want but at a bit of a loss as to how to get there.
I'm hoping someone on here can help point me in the right direction. If this project takes off I'll post updates to this thread if anyone is interested.
I'd want to be able to slab small nodules and chunks of mostly agate and jasper. I'd like to make cabs on it, hopefully getting all the way to final polish.
I also want to be able to polish small flats - specimens and backs of cabs and whatnot.
If I have to I can add another piece of equipment - a flat lap or whatever.
Here are some photos of what I have:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/a25a83ecefda0c6efe2cdfe847abbaf6.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/13b13826888045a7cc3a64282681fe4a.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/25bc444902901cf99de4daeb11e50bb6.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/a728001ae0ed12998db77ca0ab60cd18.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/e7e422126d1a3010b6cf4a458beac2f6.jpg)
I have a working motor under the bench, a new belt and got the spindle to turn. The bearings run smooth.
My questions:
1. Is this thing a good base for what I want to do, or should I get something different? If so, how should I set it up? A few diamond wheels and an expando? Flat on the end?
2. Is there anywhere I can get a copy of the original manual for this thing? I couldn't find an electronic copy online anywhere and HP don't support them anymore apparently.
2. Can I get clean precise cuts with this type of saw? I'm missing a bunch of parts and not sure what I need, or whether it will do what I want if I get it all together. Is there any way to set it up with an automatic feed?
3. I'm missing mounting hardware for the saw blade. A nut and a couple of flange/disc-type things I think are needed. Do I need OEM parts or can I just use a couple of washers and an off-the-shelf nut? Could I use parts made for another saw with the same arbor size?
4. How do I disassemble the arbor? There's a nut on the left and a collar with a set screw on the right. It looks like the wheels and some spacer tubes are clamped between the 2. Is that how these things work? I thought I'd ask in case there's a trick to it. Otherwise I guess I just pull the bearing off the right end, break the huge nut off, then I suppose it will all come off the end.
Thanks in advance to anyone that can help. If I should just ditch this thing and buy something please tell me that too!
I was tempted to just buy a 6" CabKing and put this thing on the curb. My budget could handle that. It would be nice to get this thing working with 8" wheels with some more space though...
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Its a great base to start with, but being a basic unit and a combo unit it has a couple of drawbacks.
1. combo units are fine, but the saw has to run when you are grinding, and the wheels spin when you are sawing.
However they save on space and motors.
2. The number of wheels you can use is limited, but you probably have room for three wheels if you space them closely, but it will be hard to put an expando wheel on that shaft (the bearings are on the outside and prevent access for belt changes), but you do probably have enough shaft exposed on the right side to run a polishing plate.
3. There is nothing wrong with the saw. I forget whether its a 10" or an 8" but it is quite adapt for hand cuts, and might be rigged for a gravity feed (with care).
4.Yes a few parts of your vice are missing but should be easy to fabricate.
5. For assembly of the saw blade, you will need a couple of collar washers and a left hand thread nut.
6. For the spacers on the shaft with wheels, you can buy aluminum spacers or use pvc components. I'd ditch the silica carbide wheels and go with a diamond 100, 200, and nova 600, and do your final polishing on something else. The grits and steps between them on these wheels and any others that you might need to extend the process will depend on your preference, goals, and pocket depth.
7. Disassembly is as you suspected. The bearings will require some polishing of the shaft and maybe require a puller, but they will come off to allow you to slide the wheels off.
I resurrected a similar machine and can provide photos or other guidance if you hit problems. PM if you want a phone number.
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By all means rebuild that machine. Highland Park was some of the best equipment ever built. If you can find the guard for the right end, flat spin on disks are available which can have any grit of sanding you need.
When the mud settles & I can get into my shed, I think I may have a brand new right end shield for your machine that I picked up on ebay, just to have it.
Taken from the 1969 HP catalog. This is what your machine would have looked like new. (Note the price).
(http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac274/jakesrocks/Missing%20agate/000E2258_zpsikz4fp8p.jpg) (http://s907.photobucket.com/user/jakesrocks/media/Missing%20agate/000E2258_zpsikz4fp8p.jpg.html)
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HP was (is) arguably the best lapidary equipment made. Simple in design and built to last several lifetimes. I have an E-13 model where a shaft extender and splash guard was added on the right side for an expando wheel. I replaced the two SC wheels with three diamond wheels... plenty of room. I've not had to replace the bearings but they appear to be standard pillow block units. Basic tools with a little common sense is all you need for maintenance... and I have been getting by with just the basic tools. :shocked:
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Do it. Its a great machine. I recoated mine after extensive cleaning. Pillow blocks (shaft bearings) were still good. I ended up replacing the original wheels with coated diamond resin wheels from Covington and added an expando wheel at the far right. My unit is a tad longer. The saw blade has its own designated motor.
Cheers,
Kent
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Thanks everyone for the responses! From what I had read it seemed like it was a machine worth reviving. I'm feeling motivated to go for it now. :-)
Its a great base to start with, but being a basic unit and a combo unit it has a couple of drawbacks.
1. combo units are fine, but the saw has to run when you are grinding, and the wheels spin when you are sawing.
However they save on space and motors.
2. The number of wheels you can use is limited, but you probably have room for three wheels if you space them closely, but it will be hard to put an expando wheel on that shaft (the bearings are on the outside and prevent access for belt changes), but you do probably have enough shaft exposed on the right side to run a polishing plate.
3. There is nothing wrong with the saw. I forget whether its a 10" or an 8" but it is quite adapt for hand cuts, and might be rigged for a gravity feed (with care).
4.Yes a few parts of your vice are missing but should be easy to fabricate.
5. For assembly of the saw blade, you will need a couple of collar washers and a left hand thread nut.
6. For the spacers on the shaft with wheels, you can buy aluminum spacers or use pvc components. I'd ditch the silica carbide wheels and go with a diamond 100, 200, and nova 600, and do your final polishing on something else. The grits and steps between them on these wheels and any others that you might need to extend the process will depend on your preference, goals, and pocket depth.
7. Disassembly is as you suspected. The bearings will require some polishing of the shaft and maybe require a puller, but they will come off to allow you to slide the wheels off.
I resurrected a similar machine and can provide photos or other guidance if you hit problems. PM if you want a phone number.
Hi peruano - thanks for the feedback!
I don't think I mind if it's all spinning all the time. I'll set it up that way and see if I have any issues with it.
It looks like 3 x 8" wheels will fit on the spindle with a reasonable amount of space between them. If I put a plate on the end I suppose I can use that for everything else, with swappable velcro-backed discs? I used a 6 wheel setup before so don't have any experience with that.
I was thinking of getting a slab grabber for the saw and then just making something to clamp it to the vice part I have there.
The collar washers and nut for the saw - where is a good place to get these? I see Covington has some here: http://covington-engineering.com/flanges-spacers/
Is there another/better source?
I was planning to get diamond wheels as you suggest.
I'm not sure what to do for polishing. Adding the disc on the end is seems like the simplest option. Maybe I could start with that and see what I want after working with that a while.
I'll get to work on taking the spindle apart. It's going to take some WD-40 and elbow grease! I think I have a bearing puller somewhere ...
I may contact you for help once I get into it - thanks for the offer!
When the mud settles & I can get into my shed, I think I may have a brand new right end shield for your machine that I picked up on ebay, just to have it.
Taken from the 1969 HP catalog. This is what your machine would have looked like new. (Note the price).
Jake - I think I'm definitely going to want that shield if you've got it and are willing to part with it! Let me know if you do please.
I paid not much less than that for mine, and you see what state it's in! I'd love to have a brand spanking new one of these with all the bells and whistles! But then I suppose I'd miss out on all the fun of rebuilding it. :-)
HP was (is) arguably the best lapidary equipment made. Simple in design and built to last several lifetimes. I have an E-13 model where a shaft extender and splash guard was added on the right side for an expando wheel. I replaced the two SC wheels with three diamond wheels... plenty of room. I've not had to replace the bearings but they appear to be standard pillow block units. Basic tools with a little common sense is all you need for maintenance... and I have been getting by with just the basic tools. :shocked:
I can see that - I like simple and robust. :icon_thumleft: I understand how this thing goes together and it seems really solid.
I wonder if I could add an expando wheel with a shaft extender on the right side of this one. The spindle seems very stable when it's spinning. Did you have to make the splash guard, or can you buy something off the shelf that works?
Do it. Its a great machine. I recoated mine after extensive cleaning. Pillow blocks (shaft bearings) were still good. I ended up replacing the original wheels with coated diamond resin wheels from Covington and added an expando wheel at the far right. My unit is a tad longer. The saw blade has its own designated motor.
Hi Kent. I was planning on just doing a quick and dirty refurb job to get it working, but now thinking maybe I should clean/paint and do it right the first time. How did you clean yours and what kind of coating did you apply? It looks like mine could use a good sandblasting. I scrubbed it with a nylon brush, but there's a lot of stubborn crud all over it that didn't come off.
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If you have never removed bearings here is a quick lesson. Buy a roll of plumbers sand cloth at hardware. Also rust buster or similar. Soak everything up and polish all exposed sections of shaft with the sand cloth. File any set screw dings in shaft. The bearings will be "concentric collar type". They have a locking collar that centers and secures them. Remove the one set screw and tap at collar dimple with a punch and hammer. Opposite direction of rotation. Collar will slide off. Bearing won't. Not without a lot of persuading. Don't hammer on bearing unless you are replacing. Better to put a block of wood on shaft end and try to get shaft to slide. Good luck. Lots of rust penetrant and let it soak a day or two could help.
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Those are all aluminum castings. Don't sandblast it. If you can find someone who does soda blasting, that will remove the corrosion without also removing metal. If you lived near me, I'd drag out my soda blaster & do it for you.
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On the painted parts it was simple elbow action.Wet and dry sandpaper with water wash as a lubricant. Goes pretty fast. You could use a real scratchy Scotch Brite pad also. Nooks and cranny's I used a small wire detail brush.
Paint was Rustoleum Hammered silver. I tried to duplicate the original paint coating. If you notice my plexiglass box over the saw blade. It has an opening at the side so I can get my arm in there for hand holding trim pieces. The opening is small enough I can put a old t shirt over it and my arm so the oil mist doesn't travel too far. Half of the top can hinge up so when the plexi is splattered with dark oil I can lift to see my hand held work.
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Kent, did you spray the Rustoleum over bare aluminum? Looks really good. I read conflicting advice about etching primers and so on. Really like the hammered paints. Sorry to divert the post but will have a lot of bare aluminum castings to paint soon. Hammered paints give a really professional looking finish.
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After having spent my working life as a sheet metal mechanic, I can tell you that aluminum will need a primer or etching before final painting. Yellow chromate used to be the standard primer for aluminum, but it's nearly impossible to get now. Check with your paint store & see what they advise to use as a primer.
Galvanized parts also need a primer before painting. Green chromate used to be the standard, but again it's nearly impossible to find now. You can thank the good old EPA for that.
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You can get self etching primer at auto supplies stores. I just got a can at O'reilly auto parts. I use a oil penetrant called PB Blaster and it does a great job. Spray it on and leave it to soak overnight. It also can be found at auto parts stores and most hardware stores.
Bob
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Home Depot here carries PB Blaster. Make sure it is the rust penetrant. PB Blaster silicon spray looks very similar. Another good one is fairly new WD40 product. Can't remember the name but at Home Depot next to regular WD 40. Works very well. If you have time and patience spray several times a day for a couple of days. Thanks for tip on etching primer. I use the hammered paints on old lapidary units regularly. great over rusted tin and hides a world of finish blemishes. Says it "encapsulates rust" so meant to use on most surfaces without primer.
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You wondered: "I wonder if I could add an expando wheel with a shaft extender on the right side of this one. The spindle seems very stable when it's spinning. Did you have to make the splash guard, or can you buy something off the shelf that works?"
I suspect not. I have the B12 model which has a longer shaft there (the one pictured above by
? appears to be the same - they both have a longer shaft on the right end. But maybe you do. . . just measure the length of shaft and calculate the distance needed for a 3" expando. You can buy trays and splash guards from Kingsley North and other sources but their width tend to be standardized at 6.5 or 7" (as I recall). This would mean sacrificing the buffer or substituting back and forth. As is probably obvious the expando has to be outside the bearing to provide access for belt replacement. Just helping you think through the process. Tom
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The Rustoleum can for the hammered silver says "Paint and Primer" in one. I didn't use a "primer" and I see no indication of paint failure. Its adhering very well and holding up to my continual wiping down of oil mist and dust.
Regarding primers, they need to be compatible with the paint used for the overcoat. Etch primers tend to chemically corrode aluminum to allow them to adhere and then the outer layer adheres to the etch. A well sanded surface offers enough bite for paint to adhere to. The problem with most coating failures has to do with preparation. Chemicals are sensitive of other chemicals so after sanding, rinse the piece (s) with soap and water, water rinse and dry. Don't wipe it down with paint thinner, acetone, ect. Do a water rinse. That way there is no additional residual chemical remaining that might react with the paint your using.
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if i rebuilt it, i would use it for preforms, rough wheels for pre-shaping cabs and beads.
With that said, i believe its worth a restoration just to have for rough grinds.
80 grit and 100 grit wheels.
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I got started on it tonight. Took it apart and started sanding and scrubbing some of the castings. I also ordered some penetrant, primer and paint. I'll try to get the bearing off the right end this weekend and confirm the specs on the nut I need for the saw blade.
Thanks for all the advice folks! This project has been sitting around for years and it's moving now thanks to your help. You've saved me a lot of time and trouble. I'll report back as I progress.
I'm going to start shopping around for saw blades and diamond wheels too. :-)
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I made some progress over the weekend!
I cleaned and stripped most of the aluminum castings. I should finish tonight, and primer, paint and penetrant should arrive today. I think I'll be able to get the castings all finished up working on them in the evenings his week.
I haven't tried to take the wheels off the arbor yet. I don't have a big enough wrench for the huge nut on the end, and not sure how to crank on the other end. I thought of clamping the nut in a vise and using a pipe wrench on the other end of the shaft. Is there a trick to this?
For the saw, I was also pleasantly shocked to find a 5/8-18 UNF left hand nut at my local hardware store!
I also got a couple of 9/16" washers and sanded the IDs to get a tight fit on the arbor. It all fits together nice and tight. I should be able to get the saw running this weekend!
Question - how bad an idea is it to run it with this rusted blade? I was thinking of firing it up just to do a couple of test cuts. I know I should probably just get a new blade ...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160711/bc2f2d16cf85161b5881a89844eaeb2d.jpg)
What kind of new blade should I get? I want to use his saw to slab small agate nodules mostly and don't want to waste much material. I want to be able to make little matched mirror image pairs of slices for earrings, so the closer together the better I figure - better chance of a close match in the patterns. How thin can I go with the blade?
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Love the "Hammered" paint. I actually got two quarts(the good stuff) from my lumber supply yard and sprayed it on my 53 F100 frame. It turned out great. I use it on everything that stands still.....just joking, not everything.
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Question - how bad an idea is it to run it with this rusted blade? I was thinking of firing it up just to do a couple of test cuts. I know I should probably just get a new blade
Don't do it. :nono: With that much rust & metal missing that blade will be badly out of balance. You might find yourself with pieces of the blade chasing you around the shop. :undecided:
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I doubt it would even hold together. Fragmentation waiting to happen.
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I doubt it would even hold together. Fragmentation waiting to happen.
You mean loss of eyeball or finger waiting to happen.
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Yeah, I guess I knew the answer to that one before I asked really.
Any blade recommendations?
I was looking at the MK Diamond MK-303 - 10" x .032: http://mkdiamondproducts.shptron.com/p/mk-303-10-x-032-x-5-8-continuous-rim?pp=50
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MK 301 or 303 are both top notch blades. I think the 301 is a bit thinner.
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Arghh!! I can't get the bearing off the mandrel. I've soaked it in penetrant a couple of times and tried hammering on the collar. It won't budge!
This one has 2 set screws on the collar, about 90 degrees apart, but it does look like a locking collar design.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160713/7d05193dcb2967f9b6db2e6b7b79b3d2.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160713/1a1001448d28e083de222f0fd1a7061e.jpg)
I soaked it some more and I'll let it sit overnight now. Maybe it will cooperate tomorrow.
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Re blade selection, the .032" might be a little thin for the 10". My 303 .040" deflects more than I like if everything isn't perfect. I still use it for better quality rough and use a .050" for more common rough. The .050" Hot Dog is what's on our old 10" most of the time. The .040" 303 is on our refurb HP 10" gravity feed saw.
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Hi
First question is what are you using for penatrating oil? Second can you place the shaft veritical? If so I find that PB blaster works wonders so it can work its way down and speed things up. Also do you have axcess to a bearing/gear puller? that would be a big help.
Bless
Shawn
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Re blade selection, the .032" might be a little thin for the 10". My 303 .040" deflects more than I like if everything isn't perfect. I still use it for better quality rough and use a .050" for more common rough. The .050" Hot Dog is what's on our old 10" most of the time. The .040" 303 is on our refurb HP 10" gravity feed saw.
Thanks for the input. I was wondering how thin I could go without any deflection issues. This will be the only saw I have at home, but I'll have access to bigger saws at the local clubhouse if I need to slice up something big and common. I think I'll get a 0.040" thick blade as I mostly plan to use it for cutting small pieces of good material.
Hi
First question is what are you using for penatrating oil? Second can you place the shaft veritical? If so I find that PB blaster works wonders so it can work its way down and speed things up. Also do you have axcess to a bearing/gear puller? that would be a big help.
Bless
Shawn
Hi Shawn. Thanks for your help.
I'm using B'laster PB Penetrating Catalyst: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V5JT26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I can rig something up to hold the shaft vertically - I'll try that tonight if it doesn't break loose.
I used to have a bearing puller, but I can't find it now. I may just order another one if I don't have any luck tonight. I'll probably need one to remove the bearing after I remove the locking ring anyway.
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The lock collars have only one set screw and a dimple. If it has two set screws the collar is built in and removes as part of bearing. Sometimes if you really clean the shaft behind the bearing you can drive it down over the clean surface and then clean where the bearing normally rides. You may need to file where the set screws dinged the shaft too. .032" works fine for hand cutting if you are careful. If you are new to cutting .040" would be better. You can PM me for a better price than $78.
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Good point, John, about the .032" being okay if you're careful. I do a lot of hand slabbing of fairly large rough, so need a beefier blade because of what I'm doing to it.
On small rough or trimming the thin blades are fine. I cram 5-6" rough through the old 10" trim saw if it won't chuck up in the drop saw vice in the orientation I want, or if I don't want to use the thicker blade on that rough.
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The lock collars have only one set screw and a dimple. If it has two set screws the collar is built in and removes as part of bearing. Sometimes if you really clean the shaft behind the bearing you can drive it down over the clean surface and then clean where the bearing normally rides. You may need to file where the set screws dinged the shaft too. .032" works fine for hand cutting if you are careful. If you are new to cutting .040" would be better. You can PM me for a better price than $78.
That makes sense. It felt very solid, so it makes sense that it actually is.
I left it soaking upright with the PB soaking into the end of the collar. I also got a bearing puller from Autozone. It doesn't reach down to the inner race on the back side though. If I pull on the outer race I'm pretty sure the bearing will pop apart.
I also can't push the bearing back along the shaft because there is what looks like another collar behind it that won't budge. It had a single set screw in it. I can tell if it's threaded at the inboard end or not but I haven't been able to get it to move.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160714/971c5278f0b2a163034dc4e9d3cb6c65.jpg)
I'm going to try rigging up something to let me pull on the inner race tonight.
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Hi Again
Yes the inside of the bearing looks longer than normal to me And I work on rusted up old thing almost every day. Dont worry about pulling the bearing apart it needs replaced anyway. Have you tried to loosen the shaft from where it ties into the pullies? If you can get it loose then maybe a hydrolic press will get the bearing off. If not it might be good if you can break the outer housing off.Then you can use a die grinder to cut the inner race of the bearing off. I have had to do this many times. The fun of working on old stuff.
If that dont make sense just let me know and I will try to answer further.
Bless
Shawn
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Hi Again
Yes the inside of the bearing looks longer than normal to me And I work on rusted up old thing almost every day. Dont worry about pulling the bearing apart it needs replaced anyway. Have you tried to loosen the shaft from where it ties into the pullies? If you can get it loose then maybe a hydrolic press will get the bearing off. If not it might be good if you can break the outer housing off.Then you can use a die grinder to cut the inner race of the bearing off. I have had to do this many times. The fun of working on old stuff.
If that dont make sense just let me know and I will try to answer further.
Bless
Shawn
Thanks Shawn. That makes perfect sense. I was trying to save the bearing, but if I need to replace it anyway, I might be able to get it off. I figure if I pull the outer race off, I should be able to get on the inner race with the puller and get it off as well. If not, I might try some heat on it. I'll give that a shot and report back.
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Well, I got the bearing off! The puller pulled the pillow block off the outer race and then I was able to pull the whole bearing off without breaking it apart.
Now I think I need to remove this collar that the bearing was mounted on to be able to take off the lock nut, SiC wheels and spacers off. I can't figure out how it's attached though. I tried turning it (both ways) in case it's threaded and also pulling on it with the puller - it hasn't budged yet. Is it part of the shaft, and the wheels come off the other end? That doesn't seem right.
This seems a lot harder to figure out than it should be!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160714/d81d75d331c9f1c978c202d0a3dfc807.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160714/f6c0178e8a478bad4910cd77e7634e08.jpg)
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Always does seem harder than it should be. Assuming you've used penetrating oil as mentioned by others, you might be able to use curved vice grips with a heavy piece of leather to protect your parts to get things broken loose. After locking the vice grips on, hold the vice grip on the shaft and lightly tap the vice grip on the frozen parts.
Don't hit it like an old ironworker (me) because it only needs enough force to overcome the rust that's holding it. You can tap it a little in both directions to try to break it loose. If it starts moving at all try to get some more oil in under it and just keep working it back and forth. Should eventually free up enough to spin off in the direction you want.
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The lock collars have only one set screw and a dimple. If it has two set screws the collar is built in and removes as part of bearing. Sometimes if you really clean the shaft behind the bearing you can drive it down over the clean surface and then clean where the bearing normally rides. You may need to file where the set screws dinged the shaft too. .032" works fine for hand cutting if you are careful. If you are new to cutting .040" would be better. You can PM me for a better price than $78.
My thoughts exactly.... except the PM part ..
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If you have a small torch, you could also try heating the collar before trying to remove it. Don't heat the shaft. Concentrate the heat only on the collar. One of those hardware torches with the disposable propane canister would work. Heat can sometimes be your friend for frozen parts.
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I may be missing a couple of points, but there is the chance that the collar is just stuck and it can be loosened by screwing that nut that's a adjacent to it against it. Be sure to loosen the set screw. As to pulling those bearings, I had a similar problem and managed to combine two pullers to lengthen the reach and adequately grasp the bearing. Since the threads go up to that collar,I'll bet you can bump it loose with slowly tightening the nut. Use a good wrench of course. Keep talking -= we all have these experiences. Tom
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Thanks again for all the help folks.
I had to take a break for a day to work on my central A/C. I am now EPA certified to buy freon, know how to calculate the superheat of my system, and get to sleep in a bedroom cooler than 79 F. :-)
I'll be back at it tomorrow. I'll soak that collar in some more of the PB overnight.
I tried forcing the collar off with the nut earlier but it wouldn't budge. I didn't have a big enough wrench, so I clamped the nut in a bench vise and used a big pipe wrench on the other end of the shaft.
Maybe after soaking I'll have better luck. I'll try the nut again as well as the puller - maybe both at the same time if I can rig it up that way.
I also have a little butane torch that might help. I'm determined to get that thing off tomorrow!
I haven't decided on a blade yet - probably go with a .040" but I need to confirm a 10" will fit. The old rusty one was 9".
Barranca Diamond (who are owned by MK?) make a 303C continuous rim blade that looks identical to the MK-303 and comes in the same sizes. Does anyone know if it is? I found it cheap here:
http://www.barrancadiamonddirect.com/303C-10x-040-x-5-8-153696.htm
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Success! Got the collar that the bearing mounts onto off and finished breaking down the spindle from that end.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160717/d5a29558dcecb9d83e32dc11a39b87ee.jpg)
It looks like I have space for three 8x1.5" wheels. There were 3 brass spaces between the 2 wheels, so I just swap out the middle short on for an extra wheel, and maybe shorten the 2 long spacers.
I'm going to order the wheels and saw blade this weekend now that I know I can put them on. :-)
I need a new bearing too - this one popped out of the rubber mount in the pillow block and it doesn't look like it will go back in.
I need to decide what my setup is going to be for this machine. I guess 2 hard wheels and 1 resin-bonded one - half of a Titan setup basically. 80/220/280.
Then I need something else for finishing. I have another spindle that's all seized up I could put an expando and polishing pad on, but it might not be worth messing with for the work it would take.
Also realized that I can't fit bigger than a 9" blade. The inside of the saw coolant tank is only about 9.5" front to back. That narrows my options. I think I saw some 9" blades somewhere ...
Right now I'm going to get to work on this though
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If you find yourself with stuck parts in the future, I suggest you use Kroil or a mixture of brake fluid and acetone as your lubricant. In my experience these will work far better than PB Blaster.
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It's been a little while since I posted, and we went out of town last weekend, but I've made some progress.
I got a new pillow block bearing, hard 80 and 220 wheels and a soft 280 wheel, and an 8" saw blade. Picked up a Lortone slab grabber too.
I want to source blade flanges and a precision nut for the saw to replace my current washers & basic nut setup. I also need a couple more wheel flanges and another sprayer since I'm adding a wheel.
I need to figure out a water feed system and drain. I'll probably get a couple of buckets and a submersible pump.
I think I can get the pump and flanges at Covington.
I've sanded and painted some of the pieces and will finish up the rest this weekend. I hope to at least have the saw operational this weekend so I can do something with it!
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