Lapidaryforum.net
Gadgets, Gizmos, and Dohickeys => Fixing, Modifying and Refurbishing your Lapidary Equipment => Topic started by: Redwilder on September 04, 2016, 05:04:01 PM
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Ok, so I know I've ask this before quite a long while ago but do not remember what folks said. Since one of my 18" blades just got banged up a bit, I'll need to get a replacement for when it comes time to do so. What is the best 18" blade one could buy? Want nice and smooth cuts with no grooves n whatnot. Price? Anything out there that isn't gawd awful expensive but still cuts clean?
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Any straight blade will make straight clean cuts if the saw is right. IL use the cheapest Chinese blades I can find and get cuts that are absolutely clean with no marks.
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I spoke with someone at Richardson's about blades recently and he said the Chinese blades can be good but they are usually not true in the sense that the blade diameter varies usually on the same blade, essentially they are usually a bit out of round. They apparently fix them before they use them or this defect can cause premature wear of the blade. His top recommendation was the MK-303 , he said nothing else comes close.
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Blade diameter varies on the blade? That blade that I was having issues with my other saw was a Chinese diamond blade. I tried putting that into the good saw I have and noticed as I turned it that it was moving forward and backward as if it was out of round. Thought initially that I damaged my saw arbor yesterday when that blade caused my carriage to jam onto the top of the bolt holding the blade in place (due to size of the blades arbor hole, it had a special washer on it which caused the nut to jut out too far and thus, jamming the carriage). But today, I got to tinkering and put the damaged blade back on and saw that it was turning true. First thing that came to mind was "Is the Chinese blade out of round"? It was very out of round for that matter
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I was just reading on the MK 303. Says its a continuous rim that is better than notched or diamond plated saws. Just to make sure that I understand the terms correctly, notched blades are the blades with little ridges on the sides of the edge rightt? The MK 303 has a notched appearance, but the cutting surface of the blade is continuous diamond. The notches on that blade are just for enhancing cooling the blade as well as washing the grit away right?
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The mk303 doesn't have any rough edges, the diamond is embedded in a smooth surface. Notched blades have the diamonds placed in notches in the blade. Plated blades are the worst since it just takes one bump and the diamond will strip away from the steel core. What you might see in a larger 303 above maybe 14" is a segmented blade add that to that list and the missing slots in the blade are used to carry the oil thru the cut and help with removing the cutting debris.
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Segmented blade! That's the term I could not remember :icon_scratch:
I would be going for an 18" blade. From what everyone has said, the MK 303 continuous rim (segmented in this size) is the best around for cuts and longevity. Anyone on here ever use a MK 303? If so, what are your thoughts on it?
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I use an MK 303 on my 10" Raytech saw and love the smoothness of the slabs that come out. Our clubs open shop 12" Lortone also has a 303. Helped a member cut a pet wood on the club saw today and like with my own saw, can skip course grits due the smoothness of the cuts. When the club member brings the wood back in 2 weeks we are going to use my wet grinder to polish it. Probably going to go with 400 grit to start with skipping the 50, 100 and 200.
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I just ordered an 18" MK 303 thru Kingsley North today. Looking forward to a brand new blade that I keep hearing great things about. Considering how much I had to spend on it, I would rather not have what happened on Saturday with a rock cutting off then jamming into the blade. Ive heard of rock/slab catchers before but have not been able to find anything online on buying one or how to make one. Anyone have suggestions on how I can take preventative measures to keeping a disturbingly dished blade from happening again?
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Good choice of blade. I have a BD 303 S on my 16" saw. Best blade I've ever used. Can't ask for a smoother cut.
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The blade segment cuts help deaden sound as well.
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Just got my new blade today. Ran a brick through it first to get the first deglaze of new diamonds done. Then threw in a chunk of Washington avebturine. Indeed....much quieter of a blade. Cut though showed faint saw grooves. Is this normal for a brand new blade? Should I throw in a much harder rock to smooth the diamonds down? Or do I have a new issue I have to fix?
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It might be only me but I find a single run through of a sharpening block or especially brick too little. I have old gring wheels that are 3" across and I dice them up and use them for sharpening and I normally do 2 or 3 cuts to sharpen.
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OK, looking at picking up an 18" blade and I figure I'd jump in here on this old thread instead of start a new one. Seems the 303 is a popular option. I'm just curious as how the 301 compares. And why does the 301 (notched rim) cost more than the 303 (continuous/segmented rim) when everyone says the 303 is the best bet? I'm not afraid to spend money on the best option, but more expensive doesn't always mean a better product. So does anyone have experience with both blades and can explain the pros/cons of each?
Also, is there a difference between the MK and the BD brands? Or are they basically the same thing with different names on them?
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Also, if the original poster (The Wild Ginger) is still around can you tell me how you like your 303 so far?
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You might take a look at Highland Parks blades. I recently purchased one and have been very happy with its quality, smooth cut and price.
http://www.hplapidary.com/en/highland-park-segmented-blades
Highland Park has a quite a bit of information of saw blades too. http://www.hplapidary.com/en/whatmakesagoodblade