Lapidaryforum.net
Gadgets, Gizmos, and Dohickeys => Fixing, Modifying and Refurbishing your Lapidary Equipment => Topic started by: MilanJoe on November 23, 2017, 02:37:05 PM
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Here are some photos of a nice Highland Park E-10 that I bought from my Lapidary club. I added 3 soft diamond wheels to it and modified the water system so that it can irrigate all the wheels. I also replaced the original water pump with a small aquarium pump and it works great. I needed to replace the right side shaft bearing, but couldn't locate one that matched the original but I found a generic 3/4" pillow block bearing that once I shimmed up 5mm, did the job.
The unit had the original setup 100 and 220 grit wheels and I added 600, 1200 and 3000. I haven't done anything with it as I just got it together. I think it's going to give me a lot of good years. Now I'm working on a home made Flat lap unit.
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Nice work and have fun !
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I like the way that you added one hose that can be moved to either of 3 wheels depending on use of that wheel. Drilling the holes in the front works fine if you have sufficient water pressure to get the water to the wheel face. I may have to abandon my gravity feed and go to an aquarium pump to do something similar.
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I like the way that you added one hose that can be moved to either of 3 wheels depending on use of that wheel. Drilling the holes in the front works fine if you have sufficient water pressure to get the water to the wheel face. I may have to abandon my gravity feed and go to an aquarium pump to do something similar.
Thanks. It may not be obvious, but the moveable irrigator is adjustable for water flow.There is a short piece of tubing sticking through the hole that actually carries the water to somewhere close to the top of the wheel. The little pump I'm using I got from Amazon and it flows only 80gph and cost a tad over $8. It seems to pump plenty of water.
I chose to drill the small holes on the front of the unit rather than remove the plumbing from the top of the housing because I wanted to keep it as original as possible. I could remove the extra wheels and rivet a plate over the holes and it would be back to stock. People usually mark their grits there anyway.
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That is a nice setup! I am refurbishing the same model. I got it with no motor though. Any suggestions on one? I cant seem to find a straight answer online anywhere. I've seen them with a 1/2 hp sears motor, others recommenced a 1/3 to 1/4 hp motor.
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My setup is running a 1/3 hp motor and works fine. I've never had a problem with it slowing down while cabbing or cutting.
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I recently bought an E-10 in very good shape. It was too good a deal to pass up but I really don't need the saw. I have noticed the HP A-50 5 wheel cabbing machine has the same base, and comparing pictures it looks to me that the A-50 is an E-10 with wheels on the left side instead of the saw. What I am thinking is to convert the E-10 to an A-50, save the saw to reassemble as an E-10. Any experts out there to comment?
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My B -10 has been in the family since my father purchased it new probably in the 60's. I refurbished it and provided a plexiglass hood for the saw that is partially open at its right side to allow the hood to remain in place while I use it manually as a trim saw which minimizes spray. The top has a narrow hinge panel that I can open a tad to see if I'm cutting on my lines.
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I had a small area of my shop remaining to place the combo unit which was close to a wall, making it difficult to use the end leather polishing pad so I built a housing to collect the spray and "water" an expando sanding wheel mounted on the original shaft. Its lid hinges up to allow easy belt replacement. Since the first photo I have replaced the original wheels with diamond 1200 and 3000 grits which work well after used grits 80 through 1000 on the expando wheel.
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