Lapidaryforum.net
Gadgets, Gizmos, and Dohickeys => Cutting, Grinding, Polishing => Topic started by: lithicbeads on June 04, 2018, 07:25:07 PM
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The jade community has had some rumblings about a decline in the quality of mk blades in the last few years . Any opinions?
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I have been running a mk303 last couple of years mostly on hard rock the blade is about 2/3 worn and seems to have lost its temper but I don't know if it was the blades fault or misuse on my behalf but up to now it has always cut well. I am now trying a Barracuda 301 which is supposed to be a stronger blade for hard stone time will tell. Hope this is of some value.
Dave
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The 303 on our drop saw is about three years old, and seems a bit out-of-round now. Of course it is on a drop saw, which lets the blade bounce a bit when starting a cut. Get a small ding, and over time any eccentricity would get worse.
The blade bushings are in there solidly, and the blade isn't out all that much, but it's enough to annoy me.
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This is a tough issue economically. I am running green thin China blades in my 10", 12" and 16" slab saws but I don't slab every day. These Chinese blades are thinner kerf so more slabs can be cut but the blades don't last as long and can dish more easily.
The cost is considerably less than domestic blades however.
I think if I could find a way to REALLY dress an MK blade it might make it worth it to go MK but this has never happened. If I was slabbing every day at a more commercial level maybe I would do the better blades but that is not my current situation.
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I just purchased a MK 301 today, because I am sick of Chinese stuff. By the way KN sells both the 301 & 303 under the MK brand, and DP sells them under BD brand, at a higher price. Same blade. Go figure?
I had friend who teaches Lap at an art school, who told me he beat his blade with a heavy rubber hammer back to true. He says it works better than ever. I still have my doubts that you can beat steel with any hammer to shape it back. Hydraulic press maybe, but that is impracticable.
If anyone has a source for "fire brick" to dress diamond blades, I would like to learn. I just do not think that what Home Depot sells as fire brick will do the job.
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Any ceramic supply has various types of fire bricks. The soft insulating fire brick can be cut easily with a hand saw so do not purchase that type. what you want is a hard fire brick of normal dimensions not one of specialty dimensions such as the ones called soaps. They are about $4.50 each normally.
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I used parts of old sc wheel to dress my 301. Is there something better? What about BD 303? I think I need a new blade on my 14 panther. I use mineral oil in my 8” and 14” saws. Any and all suggestions appreciated.
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I spoke with someone who has many saws constantly in use and he said the 303 is better for hard rough. Sandstone shpuld work fine to dress the blades as long as it is a competent hardish sandstone.Old times used brick as it is not fired very high and does not make the problem worse.I too have used sic a lot and wonder how much wear I am adding to the blade by using such a hard material but it does work.
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The reason a fire brick works to sharpen a diamond blade is because the main insulating ingredient is either Silicone Carbide or Aluminum Oxide, the SC is usually more aggressive than the AO so it does depend on what kind you get.
The MK303 and BD303 are the same blade with different stickers on them.
The 301 series is a higher concentration of diamond designed for harder material.
I find as long as I flip the blades occasionally the blades will last much longer so I usually flip my blade at every oil change, sometimes more often if it seems like it is slowing down.
Tony
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I just use a hammer...