Lapidaryforum.net
Gadgets, Gizmos, and Dohickeys => Fixing, Modifying and Refurbishing your Lapidary Equipment => Topic started by: robirdman on June 25, 2019, 01:28:27 PM
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This is related to my post about dismantling that saw but seems sufficiently different to warrant its own post, as possible helpers might be more specialized. The outer cord from the pump to the motor is brittle and cracking away. I took apart to a certain extent but am unsure of how to proceed further to get at the wire attachment to the pump motor. In the picture, the rest of the pump has been removed and the troublesome necessary part is shown. Looks like metal clips come out somehow.
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It is a non rebuildable motor. You can try whatever it takes to get it apart but you will likely find the connection points are buried in the wiring. Used sump pumps, swamp cooler pumps, and tile saw pumps are cheap.
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Peel pumps are very VERY expensive. go to amazon and buy a evaporative cooler pump. Works just as well and lots cheaper. I usually buy these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WR2ZBI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I had to replace the pump that I used to spray SiC slurry for my Ultrasonic Drill and the closest similar new one has such a more powerful spray that the tank fills faster than the drainage below that sends it back for reflow. So that project came to a halt, while I worked with other things. That older pump had a plastic base that broke, while this saw one is brass, maybe because it is used in oil, but I am worried about something that would work as well.
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Now I'm confused. Are you trying to repair a water pump or oil? Saw or drill? Does it pump loaded slurry. If saw, how big is it?
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This pumps oil for my 14" saw.
The pump I replaced that produced too strong a flow, was for a slurry for an ultrasonic drill, and why I prefer to just replace wiring on the oil pump.
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This is how I feed oil to my 24" saw. It is currently configured with an 18" blade. 1/4" Copper tubing on either side shoots as much oil as possible to the blade. You cannot have too much oil. The Pump is an old sump pump. Any pump that can handle water will also handle oil.
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Ok so if I read this right you want to re wire the pump motor?
1. prey the four silver tabs off their slots
2. unscrew the two allthread rods nuts
3. you should be able to remove the cover plates from either end(may have to prey them a little if paint has them stuck).
4. you should be able to slide the armature back or completely out exposing the connectors if they are hard wired you may have to solder on the new wires otherwise just get the proper wire connectors crimp and replace.
if the plates are stuck a flat head screw driver and a few taps with a hammer should break them loose.
hope this is what you want to know
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The pump I replaced for my Ultrasonic drill says 'for water only' on it. It is plastic, and the closest Grainger had to the original. The saw pump base appears to be brass.
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After totally cleaning, and painting the parts of the saw, I re-assembled and was ready to deal with the motor situation again. I pried the tabs off the pump. but it seems that on the inside there is a barrier to removing the main motor part, and the other end seems to have welds so that it can't come out that way. Before dissembling, I had turned the motor on, while in the saw and it had ran despite the bad pump wiring. I thought I would take the motor and pump to an electrical shop to make sure there was nothing they could do, before ordering a new pump. I plugged the motor in and turned on the switch, and there was a short and the pump end and a brief flame.
So then I cut the wire connection between the 2, eliminating the worst of the cracked wire and separated the ends of the pump leads, and plugged the motor in again, to just test it. Turned the switch on and nothing happened at all. I don't know if it is shorted out, or what. The wiring in the motor is so cramped, hard to figure out to deal with, and now I am really stuck. I almost certainly need a new pump, and not sure about the motor whose frame had 2 indentations for the 2 cords exiting. I am afraid if I totally disconnect the pump wire attachments, I may not be able to re-attach a new one. And I wonder how to test the motor. Disaster, and greatly need advice.
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you probably fried it. take it to a shop and see what they say. They're probably gonna tell you it will cost more to fix than buy a new one.
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I keep googling to find another local shop, and the search turns up places in others states, or ones that only deal in big motors. I was hoping to avoid the shop where I took the 24" saw motor as they said they replaced all the wiring. I had them open to look at it and it was the old wiring. they said 'so what' it runs now. I would like to be sure the motor is dead because a new one is probably not going to have the openings, and maybe terminals for the extra pump wiring. Living in Chicago, it would seem to be easy to find more than one facility.
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PhilNM: I went to Grainger with the pump part shown and the only replacement was a plastic housing pump. I compare later and see it is the same Little Giant at Amazon for cheaper. The original pump base is brass. It says not to pump fuel oil. The saw oil is OK? If I want to use the way the other pump was, I would have to cut off the plug, get connectors for the saw motor, though if that turns out to be toast then I probably won't be able to find one with slots for 2 cords, and most likely have to get an outlet strip as there is only one wall one nearby, if I have to plug separately. Trying to revive this, my 24" saw and most other stuff is turning out to proceed very poorly, problems with everything and very discouraging.
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Getting the motor repaied by a shop will cost more than a new motor. That's why you only see big motors repaired. Just switch to a cheap pump. I use an old sump pump. Home depot sells tile cutter pumps for around $20. They work just fine. In addition, they are submersible. Same for swamp cooler pumps and many other uses.
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PhilNM: I went to Grainger with the pump part shown and the only replacement was a plastic housing pump. I compare later and see it is the same Little Giant at Amazon for cheaper. The original pump base is brass. It says not to pump fuel oil. The saw oil is OK? If I want to use the way the other pump was, I would have to cut off the plug, get connectors for the saw motor, though if that turns out to be toast then I probably won't be able to find one with slots for 2 cords, and most likely have to get an outlet strip as there is only one wall one nearby, if I have to plug separately. Trying to revive this, my 24" saw and most other stuff is turning out to proceed very poorly, problems with everything and very discouraging.
Pack it up and send it to me. No guarantees, but I'll if I can swap out the wires. Do NOT remove the old wires so I know what goes where. Personally, I used a evap cooler pump for mine when the original went bad. $20 at True Value. No guarantees,. motor may be shot. Include return postage in package, and I'll let you know what the new cords, plugs, etc cost. I might be able to use some spares laying around in the garage. Dunno. from your posts, it sounds like you fried it...
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PhilNM. I appreciate your offer. I am thinking it might not be fried, because I had a similar thing happen, as described in my post about rehabilitating a 24" saw. There was a short and spark but the motor was OK. I'm hoping that the motor didn't start because of the pump wires being still connected it, though no longer to a pump. I haven't tried taking them out because the connections are hard to get at and I might screw up.
I am still wondering about the warnings of this pump not to pump fuel oil. Does that differ from the oil used in my saws? I originally bought a 55 g drum. I wouldn't want to cut the plug off and void any warranty if there was a danger in using the Little Giant Saw in this way.
Where are you located?
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The warning about fuel oil leads me to believe this is not a submersible pump. What did you buy?
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The bottom is submersible. It just says not to use flammable liquids, such as fuel oil.
https://www.grainger.com/product/LITTLE-GIANT-1-70-HP-115V-Evaporative-Cooler-3CB58
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That pump is going to make life very difficult for you. The system will have oil all over it in no time. I would take it back and get a fully submersible pump.
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This is the closest pump to the original Dayton one, that Grainger supplies and that I could find. In the picture you can see that it just fits the space where the old one sat, and this is by turning it to slide in.
It is not connected, but a tube would go to the split joint going to the tubes on either side of the saw.
The main difference with the old pump, is that it's base was brass, not plastic.
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PhilNM. I appreciate your offer. I am thinking it might not be fried, because I had a similar thing happen, as described in my post about rehabilitating a 24" saw. There was a short and spark but the motor was OK. I'm hoping that the motor didn't start because of the pump wires being still connected it, though no longer to a pump. I haven't tried taking them out because the connections are hard to get at and I might screw up.
I am still wondering about the warnings of this pump not to pump fuel oil. Does that differ from the oil used in my saws? I originally bought a 55 g drum. I wouldn't want to cut the plug off and void any warranty if there was a danger in using the Little Giant Saw in this way.
Where are you located?
Albuquerque. Pm if you want address.
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Thanks. How do I PM?
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Click on My Messages toward the top of the page. Click new message on the left hand side of the screen and type in the name you want to send a PM to.
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sent you Pm with my address. Check your inbox.