Lapidaryforum.net
Gadgets, Gizmos, and Dohickeys => Fixing, Modifying and Refurbishing your Lapidary Equipment => Topic started by: ALG on September 27, 2019, 09:05:11 PM
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:blob1:Hello! New here . I have a new used Highland park E10. I’ve disassembled it up to removing the bearings to change grinding wheels. Question is: How do I remve bearing? I removed hex screws on each side and no budge!! Thank you!! [ You are not allowed to view attachments ] .
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Welcome to the forum! I am sure someone will have an answer for you here. I do not have one of that model and am not familiar with the assembly.
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The bearings are press fit. After removing the shaft from the machine you will need to find a way to get a solid surface under the inner race to support it and push the shaft out. There are bearing pullers made for the purpose but you may be able to do it by supporting the bearing on the jaws of a bench vice. If you plan to replace the wheels with carborundum then I would definitely invest in the proper bearing puller. Anything else will be rather frustrating. Whatever you do, do not beat on the end of the shaft with a hammer. First you will mushroom the end making all other operations very difficult. In addition, the balls will brinnell the races and ruin the bearing.
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Good advice with a big dose of patience.
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In some cases, if your planning on replacing the bearing anyways, Ive soaked the bearing/arbor joint in WD-40 or PB blaster and taken a torch to it for a few minutes to heat it up, spray more while it boils on contact, and then let it cool overnight. Ive had trouble with machines that have seen the Florida humidity and heat for the last 30 years after being stored dirty.. and this is usually my last resort of "your getting the f offa there". If you must must must whack on the arbor, use a piece of wood 2x4 as a buffer, or hell, just for the mallet itself.
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This all reminds me of when I worked as a millright in a paper mill. My father was the head millright and was used to taking bearings off two and three foot diameter shafts on the stacks. Young guys were not allowed near those jobs. Very scary intimidating work.
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Thank you all!! With just a bit of firm pressure the bearing slid right off!!
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Well this is an old thread . But here is a tip. I just recently did a wheel change on a Mercury. The bearings were like those in the photos. Some pillow block bearings have a collar that fits on a eccentric protrusion on the bearing . A twist will tighten and clamp the bearing in place. The set screw will then hold it from turning. A ring spanner should be used in the blind hole, most often a pin punch and a tap with a hammer is used.