Lapidaryforum.net
General Category => Welcome! => Topic started by: Pearl on June 04, 2022, 07:50:38 PM
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Title about sums it up. As a jeweler, I've had people come in who have no idea what it takes to set some stones. I've seen very nice cabs, but tricky to impossible to set properly. I do not do wire wrapping. Some is gorgeous, some not so good. I want to learn how to cut cabs, and do it well. Since my family all lives into the 100+ range, I need to keep active. Other than why, I'm old, high weight, high IQ, so I'm either a fat head or a smart ass.
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since you know what you want to see in a stone, it should be fairly straightforward to learn to cab (trial and error). Most folks don't know what a cab should look like and start out just seeking to improve a piece of rock. Find a lapidary club near you and invest the time talking, watching, doing, and yes investing in equipment. You be right in a short time.
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Welcome to the forum!
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Title about sums it up. As a jeweler, I've had people come in who have no idea what it takes to set some stones. I've seen very nice cabs, but tricky to impossible to set properly. I do not do wire wrapping. Some is gorgeous, some not so good. I want to learn how to cut cabs, and do it well. Since my family all lives into the 100+ range, I need to keep active. Other than why, I'm old, high weight, high IQ, so I'm either a fat head or a smart ass.
A huge wave from Boulder City, Nevada
AveIArts
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Congratulations, go for it. Start with the bare minimum list of what you need / can afford. Look at equipment cost and set a budget.
I would go with buying slabs to cut cabochons from. A 6 inch trim saw and a good multi-wheel cabbing machine if possible.
I really like my polishing wheel I purchased from Richardson's Rock Ranch... 20 years, thousands of cabs later and still works great.
Second choice would be a 2 wheel wet silicon carbide machine from Covington Machine with expando wheels.
I have several small saws but love my 10 inch stainless steel unit, TS10-C Trim Saw. They have a 6 inch would be great as well.
PS: one does not negate the other. I have several fat head freinds who are also smart asses. This may be a case in point, hmmm....
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Title about sums it up. As a jeweler, I've had people come in who have no idea what it takes to set some stones. I've seen very nice cabs, but tricky to impossible to set properly. I do not do wire wrapping. Some is gorgeous, some not so good. I want to learn how to cut cabs, and do it well. Since my family all lives into the 100+ range, I need to keep active. Other than why, I'm old, high weight, high IQ, so I'm either a fat head or a smart ass.
A huge wave from Boulder City, Nevada
AveIArts
Huge wave from the other side of the country. I use to live in Vegas. That was back before the Luxor was built. Also North Vegas ended pretty much at Cheyenne. Boy has Boulder changed over the years. I remember being able to park on the dam and walk around. No traffic. Lake mead was also high enough they had to have the overflow open for weeks.
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Title about sums it up. As a jeweler, I've had people come in who have no idea what it takes to set some stones. I've seen very nice cabs, but tricky to impossible to set properly. I do not do wire wrapping. Some is gorgeous, some not so good. I want to learn how to cut cabs, and do it well. Since my family all lives into the 100+ range, I need to keep active. Other than why, I'm old, high weight, high IQ, so I'm either a fat head or a smart ass.
Back in 2011 I did join a club. Learned the basics, but have not used them since. The club and a few of the people in it were not a good fit. Idon't want to drive 60 miles one way to the next club.
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Congratulations, go for it. Start with the bare minimum list of what you need / can afford. Look at equipment cost and set a budget.
I would go with buying slabs to cut cabochons from. A 6 inch trim saw and a good multi-wheel cabbing machine if possible.
I really like my polishing wheel I purchased from Richardson's Rock Ranch... 20 years, thousands of cabs later and still works great.
Second choice would be a 2 wheel wet silicon carbide machine from Covington Machine with expando wheels.
I have several small saws but love my 10 inch stainless steel unit, TS10-C Trim Saw. They have a 6 inch would be great as well.
PS: one does not negate the other. I have several fat head friends who are also smart asses. This may be a case in point, hmmm....
I'm lucky in that I have the money to buy the toys. I'm just cheap. I have a cabbing machine. I bought the cab king 6v3 because I like the drip from the top feature. I knew eventually I would be doing this, so I have about 10 - 24 gallon tubs filled with rocks and slabs I've found or purchased over the last 24 years. My next purchase is a small trim saw and then a larger one to do slabs. At my age, I'm not going to fiddle with refurbishing. But if it is a good deal and not too much trouble to fix, I do know a good machinist.
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Hi there!
I hope you have lots of fun when you get going. What size saw are you planning to get? A 12" is okay for many people, but I'd probably go for a 14". It all depends on the size of the rough.
What are the most common problems you've seen with cabs? Girdle angles? Dome/shoulder profiles? No bevel on back edges? I'm just curious because I'd known jewelers all my life, and didn't start cutting (started with opal) until I was almost 50 years old.
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Hi Pearl,welcome!! I am also a jewelry maker, mostly silver and some gold and I work with a lot of cabochons. I have never met a flat backed cab that I couldn't set well. I use fine (.999) silver for my bezels and the fine silver will form more easily to any shape than sterling bezels. My main problem with making jewelry was only being able to deign jewelry around already cabbed stones and being bound to those stones for design. I got myself a complete lapidary shop together and now I can design a piece of jewelry and then cut and polish the desired material to fit my design. It is very freeing to me to now be able to cut my stones to my designs and use the materials I wish for a specific job without depending on finding a suitable ready made stone. I think you will love cutting and polishing stones to use in your designs! Might want to check for any gem and mineral clubs in your area, they are great places to learn and usually or often they have complete shops set up so you can try out equipment and techniques before you invest in your own shop which can be fairly expensive.
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Hi there!
I hope you have lots of fun when you get going. What size saw are you planning to get? A 12" is okay for many people, but I'd probably go for a 14". It all depends on the size of the rough.
What are the most common problems you've seen with cabs? Girdle angles? Dome/shoulder profiles? No bevel on back edges? I'm just curious because I'd known jewelers all my life, and didn't start cutting (started with opal) until I was almost 50 years old.
Probably go for a 14" or maybe a 16". I don't see myself cutting a large rock down that is to heavy for me to carry.
Problems, you hit it with the bevel on the back. It doesn't have a girdle, and the pavilion is not the type being slightly rounded to make a setting seat good. You end up packing in some other material to steady it. Or you open up the back, but still have a problem with the beveled edge on the back. You do it, but it is a real pain in the cushioned backside. It's easier to deal with the slope of the bevel on the top.
Another thing people do when they cut cabs (not all people) is make extreme long skinny points. Even if you can set them without breaking them, will they hold up long term. I learned to set opals by hammer setting them. It's butt clench time when you have a 30X40 mm beautiful black opal, that is very thin, and you are hammer setting it.
Another one is the shapes. Some are wonderful for wire wrapping. Again Yes they can be traditionally set. This one is a personal
preference. I see some great stones, but hate the shape. Strictly a preference thing.
When it comes to jewelry making I can help out anyone. When it comes to lapidary, I know enough to be dangerous, but will ask for help because I'm also old enough to know I know just the surface of it.
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Wow - tense time for sure setting a 30x40 black opal like that. I've watched a goldsmith pal of mine set a few. He'd "snap" them into castings I didn't think they'd ever fit into.
Pointy stones are indeed problematic. We always try to round or "soften" points and corners. Here's a link to a thread showing one I cut a while back. You might say it's pretty well rounded - it's all I could do with that rough.
https://lapidaryforum.net/group/index.php?topic=6020.msg44112#msg44112
It's nice to have someone with your experience on here. I'm sure we all look forward to hearing more.