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[Phishisgroovin]

if i rebuilt it, i would use it for preforms, rough wheels for pre-shaping cabs and beads.
With that said, i believe its worth a restoration just to have for rough grinds.

80 grit and 100 grit wheels.

[rubegon]

I got started on it tonight. Took it apart and started sanding and scrubbing some of the castings.  I also ordered some penetrant, primer and paint.  I'll try to get the bearing off the right end this weekend and confirm the specs on the nut I need for the saw blade.

Thanks for all the advice folks!  This project has been sitting around for years and it's moving now thanks to your help.  You've saved me a lot of time and trouble.  I'll report back as I progress.

I'm going to start shopping around for saw blades and diamond wheels too.  :-)


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[rubegon]

I made some progress over the weekend!

I cleaned and stripped most of the aluminum castings.  I should finish tonight, and primer, paint and penetrant should arrive today.  I think I'll be able to get the castings all finished up working on them in the evenings his week.

I haven't tried to take the wheels off the arbor yet.  I don't have a big enough wrench for the huge nut on the end, and not sure how to crank on the other end.  I thought of clamping the nut in a vise and using a pipe wrench on the other end of the shaft.  Is there a trick to this?

For the saw, I was also pleasantly shocked to find a 5/8-18 UNF left hand nut at my local hardware store!

I also got a couple of 9/16" washers and sanded the IDs to get a tight fit on the arbor.  It all fits together nice and tight.  I should be able to get the saw running this weekend!

Question - how bad an idea is it to run it with this rusted blade?  I was thinking of firing it up just to do a couple of test cuts.  I know I should probably just get a new blade ...



What kind of new blade should I get?  I want to use his saw to slab small agate nodules mostly and don't want to waste much material.  I want to be able to make little matched mirror image pairs of slices for earrings, so the closer together the better I figure - better chance of a close match in the patterns.  How thin can I go with the blade?



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[Rockoteer]

Love the "Hammered" paint.  I actually got two quarts(the good stuff) from my lumber supply yard and sprayed it on my 53 F100 frame.  It turned out great.  I use it on everything that stands still.....just joking, not everything.

[jakesrocks]

Question - how bad an idea is it to run it with this rusted blade?  I was thinking of firing it up just to do a couple of test cuts.  I know I should probably just get a new blade


Don't do it.    With that much rust & metal missing that blade will be badly out of balance. You might find yourself with pieces of the blade chasing you around the shop. 

[Rockoteer]

I doubt it would even hold together.  Fragmentation waiting to happen.

[Phishisgroovin]

I doubt it would even hold together.  Fragmentation waiting to happen.

You mean loss of eyeball or finger waiting to happen.

[rubegon]

Yeah, I guess I knew the answer to that one before I asked really.

Any blade recommendations?

I was looking at the MK Diamond MK-303 - 10" x .032:  http://mkdiamondproducts.shptron.com/p/mk-303-10-x-032-x-5-8-continuous-rim?pp=50


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[jakesrocks]

MK 301 or 303 are both top notch blades. I think the 301 is a bit thinner.

[rubegon]

Arghh!!  I can't get the bearing off the mandrel.  I've soaked it in penetrant a couple of times and tried hammering on the collar.  It won't budge!

This one has 2 set screws on the collar, about 90 degrees apart, but it does look like a locking collar design.





I soaked it some more and I'll let it sit overnight now.  Maybe it will cooperate tomorrow.


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[vitzitziltecpatl]

Re blade selection, the .032" might be a little thin for the 10". My 303 .040" deflects more than I like if everything isn't perfect. I still use it for better quality rough and use a .050" for more common rough. The .050" Hot Dog is what's on our old 10" most of the time. The .040" 303 is on our refurb HP 10" gravity feed saw.

[Back]

Hi
First question is what are you using for penatrating oil? Second can you place the shaft veritical? If so I find that PB blaster works wonders so it can work its way down and speed things up. Also do you have axcess to a bearing/gear puller? that would be a big help.

Bless
Shawn

[rubegon]

Re blade selection, the .032" might be a little thin for the 10". My 303 .040" deflects more than I like if everything isn't perfect. I still use it for better quality rough and use a .050" for more common rough. The .050" Hot Dog is what's on our old 10" most of the time. The .040" 303 is on our refurb HP 10" gravity feed saw.

Thanks for the input.  I was wondering how thin I could go without any deflection issues.  This will be the only saw I have at home, but I'll have access to bigger saws at the local clubhouse if I need to slice up something big and common.  I think I'll get a 0.040" thick blade as I mostly plan to use it for cutting small pieces of good material.

Hi
First question is what are you using for penatrating oil? Second can you place the shaft veritical? If so I find that PB blaster works wonders so it can work its way down and speed things up. Also do you have axcess to a bearing/gear puller? that would be a big help.

Bless
Shawn

Hi Shawn.  Thanks for your help.

I'm using B'laster PB Penetrating Catalyst:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V5JT26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can rig something up to hold the shaft vertically - I'll try that tonight if it doesn't break loose.
I used to have a bearing puller, but I can't find it now.  I may just order another one if I don't have any luck tonight.  I'll probably need one to remove the bearing after I remove the locking ring anyway.

[johnjsgems]

The lock collars have only one set screw and a dimple.  If it has two set screws the collar is built in and removes as part of bearing.  Sometimes if you really clean the shaft behind the bearing you can drive it down over the clean surface and then clean where the bearing normally rides.  You may need to file where the set screws dinged the shaft too.  .032" works fine for hand cutting if you are careful.  If you are new to cutting .040" would be better.  You can PM me for a better price than $78.

[vitzitziltecpatl]

Good point, John, about the .032" being okay if you're careful. I do a lot of hand slabbing of fairly large rough, so need a beefier blade because of what I'm doing to it.

On small rough or trimming the thin blades are fine. I cram 5-6" rough through the old 10" trim saw if it won't chuck up in the drop saw vice in the orientation I want, or if I don't want to use the thicker blade on that rough.