Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[rubegon]

The lock collars have only one set screw and a dimple.  If it has two set screws the collar is built in and removes as part of bearing.  Sometimes if you really clean the shaft behind the bearing you can drive it down over the clean surface and then clean where the bearing normally rides.  You may need to file where the set screws dinged the shaft too.  .032" works fine for hand cutting if you are careful.  If you are new to cutting .040" would be better.  You can PM me for a better price than $78.

That makes sense.  It felt very solid, so it makes sense that it actually is.

I left it soaking upright with the PB soaking into the end of the collar.  I also got a bearing puller from Autozone.  It doesn't reach down to the inner race on the back side though.  If I pull on the outer race I'm pretty sure the bearing will pop apart.

I also can't push the bearing back along the shaft because there is what looks like another collar behind it that won't budge.  It had a single set screw in it.  I can tell if it's threaded at the inboard end or not but I haven't been able to get it to move.



I'm going to try rigging up something to let me pull on the inner race tonight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Back]

Hi Again

Yes the inside of the bearing looks longer than normal to me And I work on rusted up old thing almost every day. Dont worry about pulling the bearing apart it needs replaced anyway. Have you tried to loosen the shaft from where it ties into the pullies? If you can get it loose then maybe a hydrolic press will get the bearing off. If not it might be good if you can break the outer housing off.Then you can use a die grinder to cut the inner race of the bearing off. I have had to do this many times. The fun of working on old stuff.

If that dont make sense just let me know and I will try to answer further.

Bless
Shawn

[rubegon]

Hi Again

Yes the inside of the bearing looks longer than normal to me And I work on rusted up old thing almost every day. Dont worry about pulling the bearing apart it needs replaced anyway. Have you tried to loosen the shaft from where it ties into the pullies? If you can get it loose then maybe a hydrolic press will get the bearing off. If not it might be good if you can break the outer housing off.Then you can use a die grinder to cut the inner race of the bearing off. I have had to do this many times. The fun of working on old stuff.

If that dont make sense just let me know and I will try to answer further.

Bless
Shawn

Thanks Shawn.  That makes perfect sense.  I was trying to save the bearing, but if I need to replace it anyway, I might be able to get it off.  I figure if I pull the outer race off, I should be able to get on the inner race with the puller and get it off as well.  If not, I might try some heat on it.  I'll give that a shot and report back.

[rubegon]

Well, I got the bearing off!  The puller pulled the pillow block off the outer race and then I was able to pull the whole bearing off without breaking it apart.

Now I think I need to remove this collar that the bearing was mounted on to be able to take off the lock nut, SiC wheels and spacers off.  I can't figure out how it's attached though.  I tried turning it (both ways) in case it's threaded and also pulling on it with the puller - it hasn't budged yet.  Is it part of the shaft, and the wheels come off the other end?  That doesn't seem right.

This seems a lot harder to figure out than it should be!






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[vitzitziltecpatl]

Always does seem harder than it should be. Assuming you've used penetrating oil as mentioned by others, you might be able to use curved vice grips with a heavy piece of leather to protect your parts to get things broken loose. After locking the vice grips on, hold the vice grip on the shaft and lightly tap the vice grip on the frozen parts.

Don't hit it like an old ironworker (me) because it only needs enough force to overcome the rust that's holding it. You can tap it a little in both directions to try to break it loose. If it starts moving at all try to get some more oil in under it and just keep working it back and forth. Should eventually free up enough to spin off in the direction you want.

[Rockoteer]

The lock collars have only one set screw and a dimple.  If it has two set screws the collar is built in and removes as part of bearing.  Sometimes if you really clean the shaft behind the bearing you can drive it down over the clean surface and then clean where the bearing normally rides.  You may need to file where the set screws dinged the shaft too.  .032" works fine for hand cutting if you are careful.  If you are new to cutting .040" would be better.  You can PM me for a better price than $78.

My thoughts  exactly.... except the PM part ..

[jakesrocks]

If you have a small torch, you could also try heating the collar before trying to remove it. Don't heat the shaft. Concentrate the heat only on the collar. One of those hardware torches with the disposable propane canister would work. Heat can sometimes be your friend for frozen parts.

[peruano]

I may be missing a couple of points, but there is the chance that the collar is just stuck and it can be loosened by screwing that nut that's a adjacent to it against it.  Be sure to loosen the set screw.  As to pulling those bearings, I had a similar problem and managed to combine two pullers to lengthen the reach and adequately grasp the bearing.  Since the threads go up to that collar,I'll bet you can bump it loose with slowly tightening the nut.  Use a good wrench of course.  Keep talking  -= we all have these experiences.  Tom 

[rubegon]

Thanks again for all the help folks.

I had to take a break for a day to work on my central A/C.  I am now EPA certified to buy freon, know how to calculate the superheat of my system, and get to sleep in a bedroom cooler than 79 F.  :-)

I'll be back at it tomorrow. I'll soak that collar in some more of the PB overnight.

I tried forcing the collar off with the nut earlier but it wouldn't budge.  I didn't have a big enough wrench, so I clamped the nut in a bench vise and used a big pipe wrench on the other end of the shaft.

Maybe after soaking I'll have better luck. I'll try the nut again as well as the puller - maybe both at the same time if I can rig it up that way.

I also have a little butane torch that might help.  I'm determined to get that thing off tomorrow!

I haven't decided on a blade yet - probably go with a .040" but I need to confirm a 10" will fit. The old rusty one was 9".

Barranca Diamond (who are owned by MK?) make a 303C continuous rim blade that looks identical to the MK-303 and comes in the same sizes.  Does anyone know if it is?  I found it cheap here:

http://www.barrancadiamonddirect.com/303C-10x-040-x-5-8-153696.htm



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rubegon]

Success!  Got the collar that the bearing mounts onto off and finished breaking down the spindle from that end.



It looks like I have space for three 8x1.5" wheels.  There were 3 brass spaces between the 2 wheels, so I just swap out the middle short on for an extra wheel, and maybe shorten the 2 long spacers.

I'm going to order the wheels and saw blade this weekend now that I know I can put them on.  :-)

I need a new bearing too - this one popped out of the rubber mount in the pillow block and it doesn't look like it will go back in.

I need to decide what my setup is going to be for this machine.  I guess 2 hard wheels and 1 resin-bonded one - half of a Titan setup basically.  80/220/280.

Then I need something else for finishing.  I have another spindle that's all seized up I could put an expando and polishing pad on, but it might not be worth messing with for the work it would take.

Also realized that I can't fit bigger than a 9" blade.  The inside of the saw coolant tank is only about 9.5" front to back.  That narrows my options.  I think I saw some 9" blades somewhere ...

Right now I'm going to get to work on this though




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Slabbercabber]

If you find yourself with stuck parts in the future, I suggest you use Kroil or a mixture of brake fluid and acetone as your lubricant.  In my experience these will work far better than PB Blaster.

[rubegon]

It's been a little while since I posted, and we went out of town last weekend, but I've made some progress.

I got a new pillow block bearing, hard 80 and 220 wheels and a soft 280 wheel, and an 8" saw blade. Picked up a Lortone slab grabber too.

I want to source blade flanges and a precision nut for the saw to replace my current washers & basic nut setup.  I also need a couple more wheel flanges and another sprayer since I'm adding a wheel.

I need to figure out a water feed system and drain.  I'll probably get a couple of buckets and a submersible pump.

I think I can get the pump and flanges at Covington.

I've sanded and painted some of the pieces and will finish up the rest this weekend.  I hope to at least have the saw operational this weekend so I can do something with it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk