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[Nirena]

     Yeah might have heard had some chemicals reaction in my studio/workroom, that caused anything not stainless steel to dissolve. Alot of my tools are rusty. They have rarely been dirty. This was a fumes accident involving a pickle pot left on for 2 days. Leak of a containor of Ferric Chloride (one or 2 drops), and stupid me spraying 3 ring shanks with HCL and adding kosher salt. I did it twice. At 3 days the rings were rusty garbage. Tossed em. All tools started turning brown. My anvil first. Cleaned it. Then the wheels on the Pixie rusted for the hard Galaxy wheels, and the tread just slid off the wheels when I went to look. Inside is all rusty. Was gonna tackle taking it apart I got sick. Is there anyway I could run baking soda thru the water system? Where do I go from there? what brown rust should I remove? What needs to be maintained perfectly? And how am I going to neutralize this thing properly? Thanks for any ideas. All my slabs are covered with bakingsoda. Would CLR hurt to use? It's insane it's completely out of the house everything had been neutralized and sterilized over and over lots of wood anything permeable thrown out. I looked at my beads that were moved to a brand-new container bead neutralized...maybe need longer? Say for a piece of non-agatized petrified wood. How long would I keep it in a tub of baking soda? Used a mix with water. Don't think it works. Slabs are rusting. they're still mostly in powder. would CLR help in any way? How do I pull this acid out of my workspace so it can be useable again? Any advice is so needed. Even about how to clean rust off tools. Never plugging in my tiny but largely dangerous pickle pot. What do I need to pay special attention to on the Pixie. Thx all.

[Orrum]

I wonder how rocks are rusying, I know some have iron innthem.but thought this would be rare?

At this point I question the advisability of you even being in the shop if everything is reacting like that! Can't be good to breath and be exposed!  Sounds like a EPA level disaster!

[Slabbercabber]

Electrical parts and motors do not like to be used wet.  However, as long as there is no voltage attached nothing will be damaged by water alone.  I would just dip the entire unit in baking soda water.  Then let it dry very thoroughly before doing anything else.  Spray it down with WD40 or penetrating oil.  Especially the shaft and threads.  The bearings are likely to be toast but that's not the end.  If, after thoroughly dry it can be turned by hand, try turning it on.  If it runs but is noisy, then it's bearing time.  If it doesn't run the next thing would be the switch and soldered connections. 

[hummingbirdstones]

If this is still going on Nirena, you need to get professionals into your studio to do a professional clean-up.  It is not safe for you to be in there breathing in whatever is causing this to still happen.  Did you call your homeowner insurance company to see if you're covered?  You really need to get it professionally assessed and have them do a clean-up.  I don't know if you have forced gas heat or not, but if you do then whatever is causing this in your studio could travel through the rest of your house via the duct work and start rusting stuff everywhere, as well as the duct work itself.  On top of that you are breathing that in all the time.

TIME TO GET PROFESSIONAL HELP!  Don't ignore the fact that it could have long term effects on your health if you don't get this remediated.  Also, don't use any other chemicals on your stuff.  You don't know what type of reaction that might cause.

[Nirena]

I've pretty much got it done. The last is the Pixie. It turns out muratic acid (HCL) vaporizes at the same temp water does. So all the cleaning and spraying down actually spread the acid to the whole workroom. All the tools have been saved. Anything wooden baskets, dowels, I chucked. Everything was just cleaned off with baking soda then a coat of mineral oil stopped further rusting. Seems this happens if you use muriatic acid on steel. And it vaporizes really quick so travels up then lands all over everything, hence going to my tools. Everything is washed in and out nothing is further spreading if I use the oil and don't use hot water. Going to need some instructions on cleaning out the Pixie. It still runs just a little rusty inside (I hope). Anyone know the insides of Diamond pacific machines and how I should clean it out? Oh also if you could buy a Fordom which one and why? Not sure if there's one on display where I live, have never seen one. So all info is appreciated! What accessories are the most used? Should I get a colletless, of instant loading handle? If that's what it's called. Do you use foot pedals. Definitely getting one for Christmas (might have to pay half). After all this I deserve a new toy. Thanks for all the help!

[catmandewe]

There is a formula that stops rust, I cant remember what it is called. I will look and see if I can find the stuff I have and see what it is called.

You can unbolt the pixie from the board and turn it upside down and clean out the inside of the machine.

Hope you get it all cleaned out.

Tony

[Nirena]

Yes! The Pixie is in great condition. No rusting on on anything nut the worn out wheels that are getting a replacement. I opened up the back and started scrubbing. It will take forever but I'm getting a tarp to protect it. That would be so awesome if the rust were stopped permanently. Thanks!

[Slabbercabber]

Rust can be converted to ferric oxide by brushing on phosphoric acid.  It is the active ingredient in naval jelly.  It will be ugly but the corrosion will be stopped.  Wax will also stop rust if the steel is clean.  Penetrating oil will work as long as the acid is neutralized first.  WD40 will prevent rust but must be reapplied often.

[Nirena]

I got rid of the rollingmill that was painful but it was rusted all the way thru, it wasn't super expensive but I'm so bummed. I'm always watching everything to see if it's continued rusting. Totally frustrated.