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[heavensheros]

Can someone give me some more details on how to hammer sharpen my blade? Trying to get my saw to chooch a little better as the bade is god knows how old?

secondly ... for cooling/lubricant it seams that mineral oil seems the be norm to use, Do i just use straight mineral oil nothing mixed in? and on a tank thats roughly 1.5 gallons how long with that typically last before it needs to be changed?

Thanks for the help.

[Grayco]

Good morning
There is some good information about the care and feeding of Rock saw blades at this link.

 http://www.beehiverockandgem.com/files/rocksaws.pdf

Hammering is discussed there.

I'm only returning to the hobby after 50 years so I too am learning. 

Mineral oil is what I am going to be using.  Not just any mineral oil however.  The oil of choice appears to be Equine laxative.  If you buy 4 gallons or more, you can get it for $12 per gallon at this link;

https://www.scahealth.com/scah/product/ultracruz-mineral-oil-light

[bobby1]

We get our mineral oil from a local petroleum distributor for $14 a gallon. No shipping of course.
Bob

[Grayco]

We get our mineral oil from a local petroleum distributor for $14 a gallon. No shipping of course.
Bob

Good morning Bobby1
Is the oil you buy the same viscosity as the equine laxative?

[hummingbirdstones]

Here is a remark by Michael Hoover from another thread (Blade Deflection):

"Use a small 4 ounce to 6 ounce hammer.  Use an edge of the hammer to tap the blade lightly to put tiny dimples in the sintered edge. "

Hope that helps!

[bobby1]

The mineral oil that we use in our shop for saw cutting oil is JAX Food Grade Hydraulic oil ISO 32. I'm not sure what the horse laxative oil ISO number is.
Bob

[jerrysg]

I find that the horse laxative oil is a little low in viscosity and mists a lot when it's warm here in SE Arizona. My saw is outside. I have switched to human laxative oil which is higher in viscosity.  When it's cold down here, I mix a little horse laxative oil in to lower the viscosity. Buying the human grade oil at Walmart ($1.98/pint = $15.84/gallon) is cheaper  than the horse oil from Tractor Supply ($17.99/gallon)

Jerry

[heavensheros]

Here is a remark by Michael Hoover from another thread (Blade Deflection):

"Use a small 4 ounce to 6 ounce hammer.  Use an edge of the hammer to tap the blade lightly to put tiny dimples in the sintered edge. "

Hope that helps!

So just hit it periodically not every part of the blade. That makes sense I'm going to do that and then cut an old grinding wheel I have and see if that helps

[peruano]

One of the questions was "if you use mineral oil how often do you have to change it" (I paraphrased).  The answer is : only when it becomes so fouled with rock dust (the wet version) that it is thickened and fouls your cover window or does not drain rapidly (i.e. the pudding stage).  The oil does not deteriorate, but occasionally needs to be filtered to remove the particulate matter.  Initially most of the rock debris settles out, but eventually the oil becomes so saturated that it forms a pudding that does not pump or disperse as well.  Subtle differences in viscosity are fodder for personal preferences, but in point of fact mineral oil of both human and horse sources will work fine, won't create an odor problem, and is relatively easy to clean off of stones and hands (but don't wear your best necktie while cutting).