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Author Topic: Short Buck 110 (and 112) tutorial  (Read 405 times)

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Redrummd

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Short Buck 110 (and 112) tutorial
« on: September 23, 2018, 11:34:04 PM »

1.Tape the blade for safety.

2. Cut off tops of center pin and scale pins with a dremel cut off wheel.

3. Pry off one scale with a sharp knife. Be carful not to use much force or you will roll the edge of the liner. It should come off pretty darn easy if you have the pins cut down deep enough.

4. Pry up the scale on the other side with the knife. Put the knife under the scale near the center pin and punch the pin through the scale. If you try to pry off the 2nd side you will pull out the center pin.

5. Pein one side of the center pin to spread it so it won't pull out. Tap it flush. Cut off the other side close to flush. Pein it as flush as possible. Be carful not to hit the liner when doing this as it will show as dips on the spine later.

6. Use the cut off wheel to cut the peined pins just a bit lower so there is no chance you will have a high spot.

7. File the liners flat. There are usually slightly high spots at the pin holes. Be sure your file does not hit the center pin. If you do hit the center pin use the dremel and cut off wheel to take down the high spot(s).

8. File the bolsters vertical edges flat. There is usually a slight lip at the top from the factory buffing.

10. There are two ways to “fill” the scale pin holes in the liner.

(A) Pull out the pins from the liners.   Cut two tiny pieces of masking tape about 1/10 to 1/8 inch square to go over the holes in the liners that are above the rocker arm at the rear bolster. I use the back of a pair of tweezers to rock back and forth over the tape to get it VERY thin. If you do not do this step you WILL get adhesive on the rocker arm above the tension spring and you will be very, very unhappy with a 110 with no snap. 

B) I have an old Buck 110 blade that I tape two .002 shims too.   I put the old blade/shims in the blade well behind the pins.  I then cut off the front pins leaving about 1/32nd of an inch of the pin above the liner.  I then use a 4 ounce hammer and a knife stiddy (small anvil) to hammer the pins flat to the liners and a 1/8 inch punch on the edge of the pin to lock it in place.  I repeat this on the lower two holes near the rear bolster and finally, close the knife about ½ way and do the same to the back two upper pins.  They flatten out against the rocker arm that will be d=behind them in the ½ closed position.  I do all four pins at the back at the same time.

11. Rough up the liners for the adhesive. Be sure to wear gloves and keep them and the knife liners CLEAN!!! I use the edge of my file for most knives. If you use a dremel drum keep your finger tip over the bolster edge as you can bet the dremel will get away from you and gouge the top lip of the bolster.

12. Attach the scales with a really good adhesive.  I use Loctite 325 for my stone scales.

13. Clean out all of the gunk that will still somehow get into the knife well and between the liners and the rocker arm. If you get "stuff" that gets hard where you can't clean it.  It is a bit of a problem but not fatal. You can use a .002 shim that will slip between the liner and rocker arm - even if you are using stone. Trust me I know...... 

14.  After finishing the 600 grit sanding of the stone I put a slight “roll” on the edge of the liners along the blade well with emphasis at the front where the ricasso can rub the liners and get scratches.  This eliminates over 50% of the “Scratch” issues on the ricasso.  Do the same on the top (spine) of the liner with a warding file and the “snap” will not be affected by any wire edge created in sanding the stone and metal on the spine.

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