Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Downwindtracker2]

As I work my way through the club's saws, having done the arbors, I've come to the 10". It's an early  Old Highland Park. Not to be confused with the recent imports. At the shop I took measurements and forgot to get one, so I went out to the shed to measure the wife's 10". Within a inch would have been good enough. Surprisingly, her saw was Old Highland Park too, but newer. The saw arbor was on the left side and the slab adjustment was in the slide bracket on her saw. The club's had the saw arbor on the right and what looks like some rod arrangement for slab thickness on the left, but otherwise  the same saw. 

Here is my question, does anyone have early Highland Park with the slab size stop on the left side ?  A description or photo would be help when I make something. THX

[vitzitziltecpatl]

We have the HP 10", but only the boss and the hole for the slab stop (fence) assembly on the left side.

Diamond Pacific bought them out, and we just saw an older style DP 10" in Quartzsite that had the identical setup. Tony (catmandewe) had it for sale at his booth.

I really need to make one myself. Not having a proper cross-feed makes setting slab thicknesses a pain.

[Downwindtracker2]

After digging though Google images, look what I found https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/highland-park-10-lapidary-stone-trim-522656358 . I'm not too impressed. The slab could hang up, certainly if the plate is out of square with the blade. Instead  I might drill at the same height as the boss, , then weld a rod onto a plate of 1/4" ??, both the rod and the plate would be cold rolled steel. It's smoothly finished . But at the front of the plate, I would drill and tap for a 3/8" redirod (allthread) . One turn of 3/8" equals 1/16". That way once into the cut, you won't have the stop hanging up the slab.

[vitzitziltecpatl]

I went "shopping" in some of my junk here and found a 5" long 1/2" bolt with 1-1/4" of threads and the rest .494" shank. The hole in the boss measured .500" on my caliper, so it should be an acceptable fit for the bolt shank. Found a piece of 1" x 1-3/4" box tubing. I'll slot the top for a wrench to allow sandwiching the back wall of the box tubing between a couple of pieces of bar stock. Nutted inside and out.

All I'll be looking for is a stop for the face of the rough so I can slide the vise over the same distance each time. Not so the rough face is tight against the stop - just as a gage to get decent consistency on the slab thicknesses. The vise alignment is good, so if it starts at the same thickness each time I'll be happy.

Tapped the table on an older 10" for 1/4-20 bolts to hold a slotted sheet metal angle. It's for hand slabbing odd-shaped chunks.