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[irockhound]

I made this knife for a ranch owner in Texas.  The material is from his ranch and had some great play of color in the sagenite.  These Sarge knives have the one finger groove and to do the grinds on it I use a 1" diamond grinding wheel from Harbor freight that fits the groove perfectly saving a lot of dremel work.

[R.U. Sirius]

Impressive craftsmanship! The number of steps involved means lots of chance of something going wrong. Successfully finishing pieces like this one takes lots of experience, talent, and care; and a bit of luck, too.

Thank you for sharing, Steve. It's truly inspiring.

[55fossil]

   Yep, like this one a lot. ???  Do you use water when you are doing the one inch grind on the handle? It looks as though you would need to use a number of slmall grinding bits for all the small curved areas around the finger grip area. Can you share any secrets on this? Keep em coming.

[Phishisgroovin]

what do you adhere the skins to the steel with?

[nrcamo]

WOW, great work!

[irockhound]

Sorry for response delay been out of town and a daughters wedding etc.  Good times.

Ill answer as many as possible here in one.

For the attachment I use Loctite brand epoxy 325 and activator 7075 (thanks to info from Michael Hoover's suggestion to me long ago).  The 325 epoxy is a pressure epoxy and it creates a very! stable bond that if if for any reason needs to come back off you are going to need to grind the scale off.  There is a trick to the activator though and that is that the 705 you spray and need to wait about 3.5 to 5 minutes before joining.  I made a couple mistakes on other blades because it is not an exact science given air temps etc.  In the ones that went a bit "challenged" I had applied too soon and the activator made the bond in seconds and I didn't have time to adjust the scale into position.  If you wait long enough you have 15 to 30 seconds to adjust.  I only use this epoxy for blades that have no bolster or only one.  For the canoe folding knives, since they have front and rear bolsters I use 330 2 part epoxy and that works just fine.  with both epoxies I wait at least 20 hours before doing any work after attaching.

As for grinding yes I use a dremel and lay the blade in my Titans water trough and rotate the blade to wet the surfaces every time i can see the fluid diminishing.  For the Finger grooves I use a Harbor Freight diamond 3 pack that has a large wheel and knife point wheel that i just throw in my drawer as they are too big to really use with my dremel at about 2" the 3rd wheel is a 1" wheel that is perfect for the finger grooves.  I use my saw blade or a diamond cut off to make a lot of slices in the excess agate covering the finger area and trim those out to get the bulk of material out and then clean up with the HF 1" wheel.  Once I have the finger groove cut I use the 1" to do a rough grind of the radius from the scale sides into the finger well.  The I switch to the Diamond Pacific Nova points you can but from Kingsley North and these I get in flame and cylinder shapes from 220 thru 14k and finish the work with those since only a dremel can get in that tight.  I use these same combo of wheels and points when doing the well of the canoes too since the radius is too tight for my wheels even if I were to go to my 4" pixie.  Dremel for the win.

Any more questions I am more than happy to answer what I have learned thru the different projects and thanks for the kudos.  I give Michael Hoover a big shout out for giving me the initial knowledge to get going.